January 2013

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Planters Punchlines

Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield

January 2013

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"Native Plants for Our Native Birds"

@ Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield January Meeting

Monday January 28 @ 7:00 pm in the Pitkin Community Center

The speaker for January Meeting of the Men's Garden Club of Wethersfield will be Conservationist, Environmentalist, and Migratory Songbird Enthusiast Michael Corcoran from the Connecticut Audubon Society Center at Glastonbury.  Recognizing the important role birds play in our natural systems, Michael will share his knowledge of how to use native plants, trees and shrubs to create safe havens for our breeding birds and to provide migratory birds ‘stop overs’ during their seasonal movements.  The public is invited.  BRING A FRIEND!!

Compostable Matter

By Jim Meehan

Marsha and I used to be given an amaryllis each Christmas by friends.  One year, for reasons that I now forget, the gift plant was not delivered until early March – by which time it had begun sprouting – unfortunately while still inside its sunlight-deprived cardboard cell.   And, in its desperate quest for life, it burned up all of its chlorophyll and betalain – the enzymes that produce color.

       

When we released it to the world of air and light it stood hunched and naked like a newborn white whale.  And, although it did grow taller (but not by much) it never attained any degree of ruddiness – and certainly never came close to the flamboyance promised by its cover photo.

       

Ultimately we just gave up and discarded the failed plant.

       

Long ago plants decided not to rely on the kindness of strangers for their evolutionary survival.

       

It was probably the best decision that they ever made.

 Knock, Knock... Amaryllis

Knock, knock!

Who's there?

Amaryllis.

Amaryllis who?

Amaryllis state agent. Wanna buy a house?

Amaryllis: The strange world of this beautiful bulb

By Ailsa Francis, The Ottawa Citizen

This is the time of year goodies arrive in the stores for the holidays: imported chocolates, shiny jewellery, giant bottles of exotic liqueurs and cashmere sweaters.

       

But for us gardeners (don’t misunderstand me, I’m not saying the aforementioned gifts wouldn’t also be heartily received), there are seasonal plants that start lining the shelves of garden centres, grocery stores and other giant retailers: cyclamen, mini cypress trees, Christmas cactus and more orchids than you can shake a stick at.

       

But there is one plant that is packaged in a box and if it wasn’t for the picture promising gigantic trumpet-shaped blooms, it would surely just sit there all season long. The amaryllis has become the quintessential holiday gift plant.

       

The bulb that you find in the stores today has names like ‘Vera’, ‘Apple Blossom’ and ‘Red Lion’ but these varieties are just a few that have been developed through years of breeding. If you plant them in a pot with drainage holes, using a good potting soil and leaving their shoulders uncovered. Then water lightly and these plants will reliably bloom for you within several weeks (by Christmas for those bred in South Africa, and February or March for the Dutch types). And if you choose the appropriate varieties, you’ll be treated to multiple flowers on more than one stem ensuring that the show goes on for weeks.

       

Although the growing of amaryllis from the purchased bulb is practically idiot-proof, the origins of this bulb are somewhat complicated. In 1753, Carl Linnaeus (known as the Swedish father of botanical classification) named a new, exotic plant Amaryllis belladonna. He chose ‘Amaryllis’ as it was the name of a beautiful maiden in one of Virgil’s ancient Roman poems and ‘belladonna’ meaning ‘beautiful lady’ in Italian. This Amaryllis is actually a late summer flowering bulb native to South Africa whose blush pink blooms spring up on slender bare stems, well after the spring foliage has died back, hence the comparison with a nubile, young woman.

       

The problem was that there was some confusion as to whether Linnaeus’ plant was from South Africa or South America. As a result, the plants originating from both these areas were known for a time as Amaryllis. Decades later in 1821, the British botanist William Herbert identified the subtle differences between them and introduced the name Hippeastrum to signify those ‘lilies’ that originated from South and Central America (including Mexico and the Caribbean).

       

In naming it thus, Herbert may have been making reference to a species of South American amaryllis that Linnaeus had named ‘equestris’, and combined it with the Greek name for ‘horse’, that is ‘hippo’. It is perhaps not surprising that Herbert, a cleric, would have favoured an equestrian connection for this showy plant rather than a blushing maiden.

       

But still confusion reigned for many years and it wasn’t until 1987 that the big guns at the 14th International Botanical Congress decided that Amaryllis would refer simply to the single species found in South Africa (the aforementioned A. belladonna) and the name Hippeastrum would refer to those ‘New World’ plants that we buy today in those boxes. Almost comically and despite their official decree, we continue to call these showstoppers amaryllis, whether botanically correct or not.

       

Amaryllis breeding has been dominated by the Dutch and has taken place for more than 200 years. Although there are more than 80 species of Hippeastrum, only about six species were traditionally used to commercially produce hybrids (and subsequent offspring of hybrids) during much of the 20th century. Today, large scale breeding is taking place in the Netherlands, South Africa and Florida and consumer demand is calling for new offerings.

       

At Penning Breeding in the Netherlands, new amaryllis projects are underway every year to develop more attractive and unique varieties. At the University of Florida in Fort Lauderdale, an intensely fragrant amaryllis has been developed (‘Rio’), but it has not yet made it to the marketplace (as far as I know). In South Africa, the company Hadeco is continuing to produce amaryllis for consumers around the world since its creation by two Dutch immigrants, Floor Barnhoorn and Harry de Leeuw, in 1946.

       

So when you bring your boxed amaryllis home from the store this season, remember its heritage but also remember not to put it in your car trunk. This frost-tender bulb will expire if left in freezing temperatures.

       

Ailsa’s extra:

       

As long as temperatures are above freezing, amaryllis bulbs can be sent through the mail. Otherwise, you must rely on local sources or make your order early.

Growing and Caring for Amaryllis

Carl Hoffman and Mary Meyer, University of Minnesota

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum species) are popular for their 6 to 10 inch trumpet shaped flowers that are born on 1 to 2 foot stalks (scapes). Although red and scarlet are the most popular colors, the flowers may be pink, white, salmon, apricot, rose, bicolor or picotee (petals with a different edge color) and in both single and double forms. Because they can produce flowers in mid-winter, they are prized for the color they add to indoor landscapes. Amaryllis may be purchased as bulbs or plants, in or near bloom. Blooming plants are often given and received as gifts. Amaryllis plants should be kept out of direct sunlight while they are in flower to prolong the life of the flowers.

       

Selecting and Planting Bulbs

       

When growing amaryllis from bulbs, careful selection of the bulbs is important because the plant’s performance is influenced by both the size and condition of the bulb. It is best to select the largest bulbs available as they will produce more stalks and blooms the first year. The bulbs should be firm and dry with no signs of mold, decay or injury.

       

Select a container that is deep enough to allow adequate room for good root development and has provisions for drainage. The diameter of the pot should be about ONE inch larger than that of the bulb. Although this may seem small, amarylis bulbs prefer a smaller container. Select a potting medium that has a high organic matter, but drains well. The bulb should be positioned so that at least one-third, preferably one-half, of the bulb is above the surface of the potting medium. Firm the potting medium around the bulb, water it thoroughly and place the container in a warm, sunny spot. Do not fertilize the bulb until it begins to grow. After growth appears, it is essential to fertilize the plants regularly with a fertilizer that has high phosphorus content. Move the plant out of direct sunlight when the flower buds have begun to show color.

       

After-flowering Care

       

The secret to successfully growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after they have finished blooming. After the flowers have faded, cut them off to prevent seed formation. Do not remove the flower stalk until it has turned yellow; it will help manufacture food that will be stored in the bulb. If the bulb does not produce a flowering stalk the next blooming period, it has not stored enough nutrients during the post-blooming period. It is important that amaryllis receive plenty of bright sunlight after they have finished blooming so place it in the brightest possible location indoors. Water the plant from the top of the container thoroughly whenever the top 2 inches of the soil is dry to the touch. Empty any excess water that drains from the pot as wet soil will promote root and bulb rot. Continue to fertilize the plant regularly.

      

 When all danger of frost is past, acclimate the plant to the outdoors by first placing it in shade or indirect light. Gradually move it to a bright garden or bed where it will receive full sun for at least 6 hours daily. Sink the pot into the soil and fertilize with a balanced houseplant fertilizer monthly to build up nutrients for flower production the next year. Amaryllis plants should be brought indoors before the first frost in the fall. Amaryllis do not require a resting period and will bloom if kept evergreen. However, blooming time can be controlled by allowing the bulb to go through a resting period. After bringing the potted plants indoors, store them in a dark place like a basement or cool closet (above freezing) and do not water. Do not remove the foliage until it has become dry and shriveled. The bulbs can be forced into bloom again after resting for 8 to 12 weeks. Inspect the bulbs periodically and bring them into light if new growth appears. If no new growth appears, they can be forced to bloom by bringing them into bright light and watering the soil thoroughly. Usually one or more flower stalks appear first, but occasionally they are preceded by leaves. Flowers usually develop in about 4-6 weeks from dormant bulbs, so they can be timed to flower at Christmas or for Valentine’s Day.

       

Amaryllis plants bloom best when they are potbound so they will require repotting only every 3 or 4 years. The best time to repot them is after they have gone through a dormant period, and you are bringing them up from the basement to reflower. Follow the same potting procedure as with a newly purchased bulb.

       

Pests and Diseases

       

Although there are several insects, mites and disease organisms that may attack amaryllis plants under greenhouse conditions, they are not as prevalent on amaryllis grown in homes. Careful inspection when purchasing bulbs accompanied by proper watering and good sanitation practices will prevent most insect infestations as well as the development of diseases.

       

The narcissus bulb fly (Merodon spp.) may lay its eggs in the bulbs of amaryllis plants that are placed outdoors for the summer. The maggot larvae begin to feed in the outer scales of the bulb and eventually work their way into the interior of the bulb. The foliage of infested plants may become wilted, yellow and distorted and the plant will eventually die. The exterior of the bulb may appear normal, but will reveal rotting tissue when pressed. Because control is difficult, it is best to destroy any infested bulbs as soon as the pest is identified. Use of insecticides is generally ineffective.

       

Red blotch (Stagonospora curtissi) is a fungus disease that may affect both the appearance and the health of amaryllis plants. Red spots or blotches that develop into elongated cankers with red borders may develop on the base of the flower stalks and emerging leaves. The disease is often difficult to diagnose because small red or pink patches may appear on the outside of healthy bulbs. These marks should, however, be superficial with the fleshy layers beneath white and free of markings of any kind. Although the leaves may become distorted and the flower stalks may break easily making the plants unsightly, the disease is usually not fatal to the plant. Careful inspection of bulbs and the use of sterile potting mixtures will serve as preventative measures. If the disease persists even with good cultural and sanitation practices, the bulbs can be treated with a systemic fungicide.

       

Amaryllis require some care and attention throughout the year, but those beautiful trumpet shaped flowers are a great reward in the long months of winter.

     

Garden Q&A: House plants bring gardening indoors

By Steve Piskor (http://www.post-gazette.com)

     

Now that our gardens are put to bed for the winter, we can scratch our gardening itch by adding some new house plants to our collections.

       

The plants listed are divided into two groups -- easy-care house plants and Rex begonias as house plants. For the gardener who wants a beautiful plant that requires minimal attention, the easy-care group is the way to go. If you want more of a challenge, try experimenting with Rex or painted leaf begonias. Once you have success growing them, they can become addictive.

       

While some of these plants flower, they are primarily grown for the form, texture and color of their leaves. Their beautiful foliage adds to the interior, not only for the upcoming holidays, but also for the months that follow, and in the summer months they can be grown outdoors in containers.

       

Easy-care house plants

       

This group of houseplants needs only indirect light, attention to watering, and no fertilizer until early spring. Add a pinch of tender loving care, and you will be on your way to success.

       

Aglaonema 'Sparkling Sarah': This new aglaonema (Chinese evergreen) has green leaves dappled with pink and cream highlights, pink mid veins and light pink stems. 'Sparkling Sarah' would be a spectacular plant for the holidays. Grow in indirect light and evenly moist potting soil. Grows 18 to 24 inches high.

       

Dracaena 'Lemon Surprise': With beautiful foliage colorations and form, this plant's lance-shaped, variegated leaves are a vivid lime-green with thin white stripes surrounding and interspersed within the dark green center. The slightly twisted leaves give the plant an interesting form. Grow in medium to bright light; evenly moist potting soil. Grows to 24 inches high.

       

Epipremnum 'Neon': Commonly known as pothos. What is not common about this new cultivar is its coloration -- beautiful fluorescent chartreuse! Because this plant has a vining habit, it is nicely suited for a hanging basket or a wide, shallow container. Grow in indirect light; evenly moist potting soil. Grows several feet or more in length; however, it looks best when it is pruned to keep it full and bushy.

       

Philodendron 'Black Cardinal': The leaves of this philodendron are broadly oval or lance-shaped, emerging with a burgundy-red color. They mature to a deep burgundy, almost black coloration. Combine 'Black Cardinal' with plants having chartreuse foliage for a dramatic combination. Grow in bright, indirect light; evenly moist potting soil. Can grow to 24 inches tall.

      

 P. 'Pink Princess': A slow-growing, vining, philodendron that sports beautiful pink, white, green and almost black leaves. Because this philodendron is of the vining type, a stake or small trellis should be added to the container. Grow in bright, indirect light; evenly moist potting soil. Can grow to 48 inches tall, with staking.

       

Spathyphyllum 'Domino': Most of us are familiar with the smooth-textured green-leafed plant with the common name of peace lily. This new cultivar represents a big leap forward. The leaves have a crinkled texture with large and small splotches of creamy-white variegation. Grow in medium light; evenly moist potting soil. (Note: Keep the soil moist at all times.) Can grow to 24 inches tall.

       

Rex begonias as house plants

       

We generally think of begonias as bedding plants, but Rex begonias with their distinctive leaf forms, colors and textures are more suitable to containers and indoor culture. These begonias prefer bright, indirect light, elevated humidity and a lightly moist but fast draining potting soil. (Note: Begonias will not tolerate overwatering.)

       

Rex begonias are differentiated from other begonias by their leaves, which grow on short stalks from an underground rhizome. Both the leaves and stems are covered with short hairs. The flowers are generally inconspicuous and are removed to encourage foliage production. The plants listed below are the Rex type, unless noted otherwise.

       

Begonia 'Cancun Christmas': This aptly named begonia will certainly add to the holiday spirit. The festive green and red foliage is speckled with numerous silvery white splotches. Grows 12 inches tall.

       

B. 'Curly Emma': The wavy foliage of this Rex is accentuated by a deep center curl; the leaves emerge as green/silver and mature to a deep red and chocolate. Grows 12 inches high.

       

B. 'Fireworks': Noted for its silvery-white foliage and an explosion of purplish-black fireworks in the center of each leaf. Makes a striking hanging basket. Grows 12 inches tall and wide.

       

B. 'Gryphon': Even though this begonia is not a Rex, it is worth growing. The deep-green palmate leaves are thick and glossy and overlaid with silver. This elegant begonia makes an excellent container plant that eventually reaches 18 to 24 inches tall and wide.

       

B. 'Ring of Fire': The foliage of this begonia definitely says Christmas. 'Ring of Fire' makes a dramatic statement with its vibrant red rim and silver patterning set against deep green veining. Its brilliance holds even as the leaves age, which makes this Rex hybrid a winner. It has a mounding habit and grows 12 inches high and wide.

       

B. 'Silver Queen': This Rex has large creamy-silver leaves punctuated with emerald- green star-like centers and edged with matching green banding. Grows 12 to 18 inches high and wide.

      

 The descriptions given for each of the plants really don't do them justice. Visit the Internet to see why each has its own unique beauty and can fit into any decor.

     

     

Philodendron set new world record

Sun-Journal, Lewiston Maine – 7/10/1989

Only a sprig is left.  But for 3 years a University of Massachusetts professor grew and grew…and grew the world’s largest philodendron.

       

The vine reached his living room ceiling and wound up, down and around itself.  At Christmas time he strung colored lights from it while it kept on growing until it reached a record 1,114 feet.

       

And then Jack Francis chopped it down.

      

 “It was a bit of a sentimental moments, because it had been around so long.  I bought it as a little sprout in Sears when we first moved to Amherst”, Francis said.

       

But sentiment aside, Francis said he was forced to fell his prized philodendron.

       

“That was the only way we could measure it for the record and, to tell you the truth, I was getting a bit tired of it,” he said.  “Chopped into four-foot lengths, it stacked up like cordwood.”

      

 His children, who grew up with the philodendron, persuaded him to submit it to the Guinness Book of World Records.  And two years later, he and his plant are still enjoying their day in the sun.

       

“I did it as a joke, and no one was more surprised than I when they accepted it,” Francis said.  “And if I’d only realized the sort of attention it would get, I’d at least have taken a proper picture of it.”

Horti-Culture Corner

"The White Falcon"— Koryusai

by Brad Shurmantine

I

The coffee pours right into the cup--

doors open

without falling off their hinges:

in general things hold together this good morning;

the skyline does not collapse,

brown birds fall from the rooftops

& rise again, beaks full of straw . . .

 No one's read my poems in a year.

I've taken to talking to my plants,

good for them I'm told--

a philodendron leaf, freshly unfurled,

drips & shines, basking in my praise.

II

among moonlit chrysanthemums the white falcon

poses, his white wings tremble,

he will not wait for the day

to hurtle himself forth,

he will not wait--

but he waits.

Amaryllis

By Connie Wanek

A flower needs to be this size

to conceal the winter window,

and this color, the red

of a Fiat with the top down,

to impress us, dull as we've grown.

Months ago the gigantic onion of a bulb

half above the soil

stuck out its green tongue

and slowly, day by day,

the flower itself entered our world,

closed, like hands that captured a moth,

then open, as eyes open,

and the amaryllis, seeing us,

was somehow undiscouraged.

It stands before us now

as we eat our soup;

you pour a little of your drinking water

into its saucer, and a few crumbs

of fragrant earth fall

onto the tabletop.