January 2012

Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
January 2012
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Next Meeting - Monday January 23rd
@ The Pitkin Community Center @ 7:00 p.m.

Harrison Griffin, a retired Agriculture Teacher and ninth generation dairy farmer, will talk about the Community Supported Agriculture project that he and his family have started in Suffield. In its third year, Oxen Hill Farm supplies its shareholders, and also merchandises direct to the public at several area farmer's markets including Wethersfield's. Their website is www.oxenhillfarm.com.

Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan

Even though it started out badly, this is turning out to be a very good winter for the squirrels that reside at the Meehan homestead.

On the last weekend of October a snow-laden limb from our Magnolia tree flopped over and severed our connection to our street’s electrical power grid – the very same grid that had already ceased to operate that afternoon. At about the same time a large Oak branch containing one of the tree rat’s larger condominiums (aka “dray”) crashed to the ground. And the bough on our Flowering Crab tree that held our three principal bird/squirrel feeders broke off and crashed to the earth. Several trash bins full of other lumber also tumbled into our yard.

As part of the first wave of our cleanup, Marsha and I retrofitted the seed cafeterias to one of the remaining offshoots of the decorative fruit tree, and rested the broken end of the severed limb atop one of the other remaining branches in order to provide a bit of nearby shelter to our guest diners. Within hours the now homeless refugee rodents were drowning their sorrows in pouch fulls of sunflower seeds. And we were off to the town’s well-heated Community Center where, along with our Hartford based health club, we spent our waking hours during the weeklong blackout.

Ironically we had tree work scheduled for our yard on that Monday. Realizing that the planned work would have to take a backseat to emergency jobs they now had to do I called the tree company and, asked if they could please make a quick stop and prune back our Magnolia so as to eliminate the possibility of another power wire takedown.

I also told them to leave the flowering crab – which had been on the original order as a “check it over and assess” – alone. A week or so later, after we had our electricity back, an out-of-state subcontractor for our arborist dropped by while we were out and (a) cut back the wrong parts of the Magnolia and (b) carried away the fallen branch that Marsha and I had so carefully set in place.

The yard pets seemed unfazed by these arboricultural errors. Marsha and I however had come to like the new form of entertainment provided by the broken limb playscape. Birds gathered on the dead branch, chattering away as they waited their turn at the dining table.

Squirrels, sometimes performing as a group, ran in a continuous nose-to-tail cycle across and up and down the fallen branch – abruptly changing direction in perfect unison through a series of rapid-fire, gravity-defying maneuvers impossible to execute in three dimensions, and equally difficult to describe in 2-D words. When doing their solo acts the bushy-tailed rodents leapt fearlessly from their new playground perch onto our latest “squirrel proof” feeder – which up until that point had largely lived up to its name.

This alleged squirrel foiler is made up of a square-sided plastic tube with several feeding holes, surrounded by a separate metal cage with leaf shaped decorations. The cage is attached to springs. The tube is not. When a squirrel latches on to the outer enclosure, it drops down and its ornamental leaves cover the apertures on the immovable plastic feeder. Amazingly this Rube Goldberg contraption actually functions as advertised. The squirrels' weight does indeed force the metal shell down so that its doors shut tight against the plastic-lined feeding holes on the interior tube. The little rats still climbed up onto the feeder and gnawed away at the metal (unsuccessfully) and plastic (successfully) but quickly became frustrated and returned to the ground where they were humiliatingly forced to feed on the castoffs of their much lighter feathered dining companions.

But now, apparently fired up by the easy access provided by their new “shelter”, the squirrels hurled themselves at the beleaguered feeder with such frequency that at pretty much any time during the day one of the tree rodents was either on, or in mid-flight on its way up to the feeder.

And they stayed on it longer when they got there.

What the squirrels finally figured out, possibly under the influence of the playscape induced adrenaline, was that once they gnawed away enough polyethylene to make the food portals larger than their covers, the sunflower seeds simply tumbled into their greedy little mouths.

And we figured out that if we wanted this traveling circus to continue its performances, then we needed a new playscape. Fortunately one of the large branches from our copse of arborvitae cedars had also been damaged during the surprise snowstorm.

So with a little pruning-saw action, and some long distance dragging, the birds and squirrels had a newer, even better (because it had foliage) “shelter”. Marsha decorated it with shiny red, blue and gold ornaments for the holidays and I verbally stopped the arborists from removing it when they finally came to perform our originally contracted work and to properly prune the Magnolia.

Our house wires are safe from our timber. And, as the real cold weather settles in, our birds and squirrels continue to find new ways to enjoy their playscape – and entertain us. Not only is it going to be a good winter for our squirrels, but hopefully for us too.

Some Hard Truths About Gardening In Connecticut
A Tongue-In-Cheek Look At The Trials And Tribulations Of Gardening In Connecticut by Deborah Roberts @ stoningtonpatch.com

If you’ve been gardening in Connecticut long enough, you’ve probably learned a few hard truths along the way. You know, those lessons we seem to have to re-learn every season. Gardeners are optimists at heart, but sometimes it helps to acknowledge we really have very little control over what happens in our gardens. Here are a few truisms about Connecticut gardening that I’ve learned over the past few decades that may save you some headaches and a few heartaches.
Mother Nature has a strange sense of humor. And she likes to remind us of that fact at least a few times each year. Don’t take it personally.

If you’re not killing a few plants each year, you’re doing something wrong. Sometimes we’re to blame and sometimes Mother Nature hastens the decline. But either way, those deaths will teach you how to be a better gardener.

Grass really does grow better in your flowerbeds than it does in your lawn.

Never take a cut of mint from a well-meaning neighbor. And while you’re at it, beware of plants, especially groundcovers like mint, that are labeled ‘vigorous’. They are the bullies of your garden, quickly outcompeting nearby plants.

‘Free-seeding’ is gardening code for ‘you’ll be spending tons of time on your hands and knees next spring pulling out unwanted seedlings’.

When it comes to perennials, if the deer don’t eat them the rabbits probably will. And if the rabbits don’t like them, they are probably candy for groundhogs. Or voles.

Remember, deer don’t read the same books as we do. They don’t know which plants are supposed to be ‘deer resistant’ and which ones aren’t.

There’s always one more rock or one more root to remove in order to have the ’perfect’ planting hole.

However improbable it may seem, you do control the amount of rain the rest of the state receives. When the weatherman calls for 2” of rain and you decide NOT to water your garden, you’re prolonging the dry spell for the rest of us. But if you drag out the hoses and water your garden, the skies will open up and it will rain and rain and rain.

Imagine it’s mid-Autumn and you have a bunch of daffodils bulbs that still need to be planted. Don’t wait until next weekend to get them in the ground. Chances are it will snow and your window of opportunity will be slammed shut. On the other hand, if you do plant them now, then the ground probably won’t freeze until January so you really could have procrastinated a little bit longer.

Speaking of bulbs, what you’ve suspected all along is true…the squirrels and chipmunks are watching exactly where you plant those bulbs so they can dig them up a few hours later.

9 Garden Myths Demystified
Don't let these classic superstitions waste your time or harm your plants
John C. Fech @ finegardening.com

I learned that you shouldn’t believe every bit of gardening advice you hear in graduate school, thanks to my statistics professor, Walter Stroup, who loved to wear his “Walter Beer” hat during class. This weird-looking derby made from yarn and beer cans was a gift from one of his former students. During the first class, Stroup explained he always wore his Walter Beer hat when he fertilized his plants and wearing it was what caused them to grow so well. The purpose of his anecdote, I realized, was to impress upon his students the importance of questioning every claim and bit of advice.

We have all followed someone’s gardening advice without knowing if it was based on sound information. As you maintain your garden, consider if your techniques are simply ideas passed down through the ages or smart practices based on solid science. Here are a few of my favorite myths and the truths we should all embrace.

Myth: If a plant is under stress, it should be fed
Truth: Fertilizing plants that are not nutrient deficient can lead to additional stress. Fertilizer is added to plants growing in poor soils and to plants that show symptoms of lacking a particular nutrient. Generally, when a plant is stressed, it’s not from lack of food. Compacted soil, heat, salt spray, faulty planting, and improper placement are usually the culprits that stress plants. It is important to rule out other environmental conditions before deciding a plant is underfertilized. When fed, stressed plants use up energy that is better spent on growing roots, walling off decay organisms, or defending against insects.

Myth: Cover newly pruned areas with varnish, tar, or paint
Truth: There really isn’t a way to keep fungal organisms out of a new cut. In about half of the situations where these wound dressings are used, the tree’s heartwood decays faster than it would have without the topical application. The paint or tar holds moisture near the new wound, which, unfortunately, helps the various fungal decay organisms grow. Instead, simply make a clean cut just outside the branch collar and leave it alone. If pruned properly, trees can take advantage of natural defense mechanisms to ward off most decay problems.

Myth: Organic pesticides are less toxic than synthetic ones
Truth: Misused pesticides can be harmful, regardless of whether they are considered natural or synthetic. Pyrethrum, for example, is made from chrysanthemums but is still toxic to people and pets when handled improperly. Whenever possible, it’s best to select the least toxic control option available because, even if not lethal, many of these pesticides can cause serious health complications. Safe storage of these products can help prevent any harmful accidents. Read and follow all label directions, and remember that these products are tools, not miracle workers or silver bullets. Pesticides cannot correct mistakes made in plant selection, installation, or maintenance.

Myth: Newly planted trees need to be staked and guy-wired
Truth: Staking a tree can hinder its proper development. This practice was once a landscape industry standard, driven by a gardener’s inner desire to do something good for the plant to help it grow. It’s best to avoid staking unless the new tree is located in a windy or on a sloped site. Allowing the tree to sway in the wind encourages the development of stronger stabilizing roots. If staked, the tree may become dependent on this support, preventing the root system from becoming strong and healthy. If it is truly necessary, tie the trunk loosely to the stake using fabrics such as T-shirts or bicycle inner tubes to avoid damaging the bark, and remove the support after one growing season.

Myth: When it comes to fertilizers and pesticides, if a little is good, twice is better
Truth: A precise measurement of these materials is crucial to the health of your garden. If you like to watch the Food Network, you’ve probably seen Emeril Lagasse “kick it up a notch” by adding a little more of a certain spice. This approach may be fine for cooking but not for gardening. Fertilizers can raise salt levels in the soil to toxic levels, burning the roots and stunting growth of your plants. Pesticides, when overused, can also have similar detrimental effects on plants by burning the leaves or raising toxicity levels in the soil. Garden products, both organic and synthetic, are extensively tested during research and development to provide safe and reliable results, so using the exact recommended dosage is the best practice. I recently witnessed an impatient gardener spray some cucumber beetles with a very concentrated solution of an insecticide; the bugs died but so did some of the cucumber vines.

Myth: Sunshine focused through water droplets will burn leaves
Truth: The diffused rays of the sun are not powerful enough to cause burning. If it were the case that water droplets burned leaves, farmers would encounter huge losses after each daytime rainstorm. In fact, lawn care professionals often cool turf by spritzing water over the foliage during the hottest part of the day. In general, the best time to water most garden plants is early in the morning because of higher municipal water pressure, a lower evaporation rate, and the potential to reduce foliar diseases that often occur in overly moist situations. But if you are left with no other choice, watering midday will not harm your plants.

Myth: Add sand to loosen heavy, clay soil
Truth: The worst remedy for a clay soil is to add sand. This practice turns the clay soil into a rock-hard, mortarlike substance. Instead, use organic matter, like compost, to loosen heavy soils because it is light in composition and also improves nutrient quality. Sand can improve a clay soil, but it must be added until it constitutes most of the mineral composition of the soil. At that point, it’s not really clay soil any longer; it is sandy soil.

Myth: When planting a tree or shrub, dig the hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root-ball
Truth: A planting hole should be twice as wide as the root-ball but no deeper. By applying this planting principle, you will encourage the roots of a plant to grow out, which creates stability and allows the plant to readily find water and nutrients. A good way to make sure that the root-ball is at the right depth is to place the top roots so that they are parallel with the soil surface and then apply 2 inches of mulch over them. Think of it as a “planting area,” instead of a “planting hole.” Don’t add compost or potting soil when backfilling the planting area. Most roots prefer to grow in these amended soils instead of spreading out through the landscape.

Myth: Drought-tolerant plants don’t need to be watered
Truth: All plants need to be watered to become established. Most “drought-tolerant” plants such as Russian sages (Perovskia spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 6–9) and black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11) are those that can survive through an average summer without supplemental watering. These plants, however, are usually not drought tolerant in the first year, and regular watering and an application of mulch are good ideas. After that, you can pretty much allow them to fend for themselves, but even the toughest of plants will benefit from a monthly soaking.

Debunking Garden Myths: Garden Myths Not Worth Repeating
laptopgardener.com

Myths, old wives tales, and folklores abound even in the world of gardening. Gardening lore often gets passed from neighbour to neighbour as homegrown tips based on little or no scientific research. The myths start out as common sense conclusions and keep getting perpetuated time after time. Pretty soon they are part of the global gardening consciousness and they are believed to be true. Once this happens it is almost impossible to undo the belief. The poinsettia poison myth is still being trounced after eighty years. Well, here’s my attempt to dispel some popular garden myths.

Myth: Botanical “natural” pesticides are toxic to pests and harmless to other living things (including gardeners). Not true, in fact some botanical pesticides that are derived from poisonous plants are even more toxic than commercially prepared ones. Both pyrethrum (made from Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium) and rotenone (made from two tropical legume family plants, the South American Lacepod or Lonchocarpus and the Asia’s jewel vine or flame tree which is known botanically as Derris) are popular botanical pesticides. Pyrethrum and rotenone are moderately toxic to humans (particularly children) when inhaled or ingested. Interestingly both are extremely toxic to aquatic life, and are used as fish poisons.

The flowers of the chrysanthemum used to make pyrethrum are harvested shortly after they open and are either dried and pulverized or the oils from the flower are extracted using solvents. The active ingredient works on the nervous system to cause paralysis and death (if in sufficient quantities). Cats are particularly susceptible to poisoning from pyrethrums.
Rotenone is a contact and stomach poison that is made by grinding up roots and varies in its human toxicity from very high to low depending on how much of the pure derris root is used in the pesticide. Treat natural pesticides with the same caution that synthetic ones deserve (or give them even more). One of the most toxic pesticides is nicotine, which is derived from the tobacco plant.

Myth: The soil under oaks, cedars and pines is acidic. The top inch or so might be acidic, but if the bedrock underneath is limestone then the soil above that rock will be on the alkaline side. Oak leaves, cedar leaflets and pine needles have to build up for centuries to make a significant amount that will have any impact on alkaline soil.

Myth: Moss grows in lawns that need lime. Lots of conditions favour the growth of moss in lawns. Having an acid soil is not the most significant one of them. The most important reason that moss is found in the lawn is that conditions are not favourable for a lush, healthy lawn. Moss is an opportunity seeking plant and will settle almost anyplace that there’s an open spot. Too much shade, poor drainage (moist conditions), poor fertility or compacted soils are all conditions where lawns do not grow well. When this happens moss is almost certain to arrive. Don’t add lime to correct a moss problem unless a soil analysis indicates an excessively acidic result.

Myth: Mushrooms and toadstools sprouting in the lawn mean that the soil is deficient. On the contrary, fungi such as mushrooms and toadstools are living off nourishing decaying material. A rotting tree root or other decaying organic matter is likely the cause of the fungi. This is a good sign that there’s nourishment being added to the soil. The visible structures are the flowering and fruiting portion of an extensive underground plant.

Myth: Ants are needed to make peony flowers open. Many people believe that ants are actually eating the waxy coating from the peony so that the flower can open. Others believe that the peony is secreting a sugary substance that attracts ants to feed. In any case, the ant is enjoying a symbiotic relationship with the peony and is not doing any harm by being on the flower bud. Once the bloom starts to open the ants vanish. Peony flowers can open just fine without any ants – just ask a florist.

Myth: Some plants can repel mosquitoes. Amazing but not true, there are no plants that repel mosquitoes. If you rub the leaves of certain plants onto your skin, the oils and aromas can help discourage mosquitoes from biting. It is asking a lot of a plant to release essential oils into the air in quantities that can keep mosquitoes away for distances like 6 feet though.

Myth: Clay pots are better for houseplants than plastic pots. Clay pots cause the moisture in the soil to evaporate faster than plastic pots. This can be helpful for houseplants if the waterer is heavy handed – then clay is better. If houseplants are watered only when they need water instead of on a regular schedule then plastic pots should be adequate.

Myth: It doesn’t pay to use leftover seeds from flowers and vegetables. Most open packets of seed start to loose their viability as soon as they are exposed to heat and extreme humidity levels. If seeds are stored under ideal conditions in a tightly sealed jar in a dark, cool, dry location then they should store well for several years. The length of time varies according to the seed. To extend the viability even further, place some powdered milk in the bottom of the glass jar to soak up humidity.

Myth: Hostas are shade plants and don’t tolerate the sun. There are many hostas that perform very well in the sun if they are given adequate moisture. In fact, the native habitat for many hostas is in a sunny location at the edge of the woods. Some hostas that tolerate more sun are: Francee, Patriot, Sum and Substance, Gold Standard and Royal Standard.

Taking a moment to look at these myths with a bit of scepticism will hopefully lead gardeners, after some critical thinking, to come to the conclusion that not all gardening lore is valid.

Myths and Truths from the Garden
Renè Lindsey aka “The Plant Lady” @ northsacnews.com

Does this really work? Or is this going to hurt? That’s a question we often ask ourselves. Ever heard of an old wives tale? Why do we have to be old and have a tale to know what really works? I’m old now, 40 thank you, and I do think I finally might know what I’m talking about. My dear sista, Tiffy Boo, asked if I could cover myths & truths so maybe this is my best attempt.

1. Does watering my lawn in the hot sun burn it or burn my plant leaves? NO is the truth. Watering in extreme heat does not burn the lawn. Heat magnification burns occur from a distance like a bug & a magnifying glass. However, when hot the evaporation rate is accelerated and our water can vaporize and be a waste of money and resources.

2. To avoid transplant shock use B-1. This one took me by surprise, B-1 does nothing. It’s the other minerals and ingredients such as hormones. The B-1 is simply a marketing strategy. Wow!

3. Gypsum to break up clay soil: not exactly! At Home Depot we used to carry a product called Soil Buster. It contained 70% pelletized gypsum. There was even an article in the Sac Bee. Wow, sales boomed. Then the product was pulled. Hmmm. Yes the plot thickens.
Gypsum claims to soften hard clay soils. Gypsum is actually – (calcium sulfate) – and when added to high sodium soils (hard soil) it actually replaces the sodium (salts) with calcium leaving a more pliable desired soil. The sodium has now left the building, “as did Elvis”. TCB Baby!

4. The soil under pines and oaks is acidic. Yes and No. The first few inches are, however, if the bedrock underneath consists of limestone, then that soil will be on the alkaline side. It takes many years of leaf build up to counteract for the acidity to become an effect! FOOD FOR THOUGHT! LISTEN TO YOUR PLANT LADY.

5. Poinsettas are poisonous: NOT! Long, long ago a king’s son got sick after eating a bloom. Coincidence. Years of testing has proved.

6. Seeds are no good after one season! Wrong. Store in an air tight jar with a lid, with a little powdered milk in it to absorb moisture and keep them in the dark. They will last 5 years or more. I shoulda done this long ago.

7. Rubber mulch vs. bark – straw. Yes, as far as aesthetics goes rubber wins, does not decompose, fungi and insects do not desire it as a habitat, does not fade, etc, etc. However, if you place it in an area or live in an area high in fire significance it will be the easiest to ignite and the hardest to extinguish.

8. This one is just kinda cool. Country soil vs. urban city soils. Kinda like in the 70’s, free, flowing, soft, fertile out in the middle of nowhere, anything’s possible. Loose, no restrictions, oh the possibilities. That’s the country soils. Urban/city landscape is such a challenge relating back to the compaction of rock, soil & dead debris from the big heavy trucks when the neighborhoods were being formed. This could explain why our yards never look like grandma’s out in the sticks did. When housing areas are being formed all the soils are graded and scraped, flattened. Heavy equipment compacts the entire area, etc, etc, etc. Wow. Interesting. Therefore we gotta to bring in so much top soil, raised beds, etc. I woulda never thunk it.

9. Cover fresh cuts or pruned branches with tar, seal or paint: to keep fungus out, etc. This can actually be false! If the tree is pruned properly it can seal and heal itself if the cut is a straight clean cut right outside the branch collar. If done incorrectly and sealed off, moisture is held under the wound, bacteria incurs and fungal decay begins.

10. Last but not least: if we do everything right, then, by golly, nothing can ever go wrong! Sure. We all know this truth. Drive thru the country, take a trip to the Redwoods, Yosemite, Highway 101 Scenic Coast, Yellowstone, the desert, even Tahoe. Who designed and gardened that? The Garden God himself, the only green thumb there really is. Natural environments will always be our example in the quest to duplicate it for our own satisfaction. All that nature receives is poop and water and look at it. We’ll never be able to out do it. However, with a little grace and some effort we can achieve our own personal little piece of heaven in our own backyards. Sometimes less is more and new ain’t always better. I have learned the stupidest questions get the smartest answers. Trust me I have asked many in my time.

Horticulture Corner:

"Winter is icumen in,
Lhude sing Goddamm,
Raineth drop and staineth slop,
And how the wind doth ramm !
Sing : Goddam.”

Ezra Pound, Ancient Music