Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
January 2013
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Native Plants for Our Native Birds"
@ Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield January Meeting
Monday January 28 @ 7:00 pm in the Pitkin Community
Center
The speaker for January Meeting of the Men's Garden Club
of Wethersfield will be Conservationist, Environmentalist, and Migratory
Songbird Enthusiast Michael Corcoran from the Connecticut Audubon Society
Center at Glastonbury. Recognizing the
important role birds play in our natural systems, Michael will share his
knowledge of how to use native plants, trees and shrubs to create safe havens
for our breeding birds and to provide migratory birds ‘stop overs’ during their
seasonal movements. The public is
invited. BRING A FRIEND!!
Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan
Marsha and I
used to be given an amaryllis each Christmas by friends. One year, for reasons that I now forget, the
gift plant was not delivered until early March – by which time it had begun
sprouting – unfortunately while still inside its sunlight-deprived cardboard
cell. And, in its desperate quest for
life, it burned up all of its chlorophyll and betalain – the enzymes that
produce color.
When we
released it to the world of air and light it stood hunched and naked like a
newborn white whale. And, although it
did grow taller (but not by much) it never attained any degree of ruddiness –
and certainly never came close to the flamboyance promised by its cover photo.
Ultimately we
just gave up and discarded the failed plant.
Long ago plants
decided not to rely on the kindness of strangers for their evolutionary
survival.
It was
probably the best decision that they ever made.
Knock, Knock... Amaryllis
Knock, knock!
Who's there?
Amaryllis.
Amaryllis who?
Amaryllis state agent. Wanna buy a house?
Amaryllis: The strange world of this beautiful bulb
By Ailsa Francis, The Ottawa Citizen
This is the
time of year goodies arrive in the stores for the holidays: imported
chocolates, shiny jewellery, giant bottles of exotic liqueurs and cashmere
sweaters.
But for us
gardeners (don’t misunderstand me, I’m not saying the aforementioned gifts
wouldn’t also be heartily received), there are seasonal plants that start
lining the shelves of garden centres, grocery stores and other giant retailers:
cyclamen, mini cypress trees, Christmas cactus and more orchids than you can
shake a stick at.
But there is
one plant that is packaged in a box and if it wasn’t for the picture promising
gigantic trumpet-shaped blooms, it would surely just sit there all season long.
The amaryllis has become the quintessential holiday gift plant.
The bulb that
you find in the stores today has names like ‘Vera’, ‘Apple Blossom’ and ‘Red
Lion’ but these varieties are just a few that have been developed through years
of breeding. If you plant them in a pot with drainage holes, using a good
potting soil and leaving their shoulders uncovered. Then water lightly and
these plants will reliably bloom for you within several weeks (by Christmas for
those bred in South Africa, and February or March for the Dutch types). And if
you choose the appropriate varieties, you’ll be treated to multiple flowers on
more than one stem ensuring that the show goes on for weeks.
Although the
growing of amaryllis from the purchased bulb is practically idiot-proof, the
origins of this bulb are somewhat complicated. In 1753, Carl Linnaeus (known as
the Swedish father of botanical classification) named a new, exotic plant
Amaryllis belladonna. He chose ‘Amaryllis’ as it was the name of a beautiful
maiden in one of Virgil’s ancient Roman poems and ‘belladonna’ meaning
‘beautiful lady’ in Italian. This Amaryllis is actually a late summer flowering
bulb native to South Africa whose blush pink blooms spring up on slender bare stems,
well after the spring foliage has died back, hence the comparison with a
nubile, young woman.
The problem
was that there was some confusion as to whether Linnaeus’ plant was from South
Africa or South America. As a result, the plants originating from both these
areas were known for a time as Amaryllis. Decades later in 1821, the British
botanist William Herbert identified the subtle differences between them and
introduced the name Hippeastrum to signify those ‘lilies’ that originated from
South and Central America (including Mexico and the Caribbean).
In naming it
thus, Herbert may have been making reference to a species of South American
amaryllis that Linnaeus had named ‘equestris’, and combined it with the Greek
name for ‘horse’, that is ‘hippo’. It is perhaps not surprising that Herbert, a
cleric, would have favoured an equestrian connection for this showy plant
rather than a blushing maiden.
But still
confusion reigned for many years and it wasn’t until 1987 that the big guns at
the 14th International Botanical Congress decided that Amaryllis would refer
simply to the single species found in South Africa (the aforementioned A.
belladonna) and the name Hippeastrum would refer to those ‘New World’ plants
that we buy today in those boxes. Almost comically and despite their official
decree, we continue to call these showstoppers amaryllis, whether botanically
correct or not.
Amaryllis
breeding has been dominated by the Dutch and has taken place for more than 200
years. Although there are more than 80 species of Hippeastrum, only about six
species were traditionally used to commercially produce hybrids (and subsequent
offspring of hybrids) during much of the 20th century. Today, large scale
breeding is taking place in the Netherlands, South Africa and Florida and
consumer demand is calling for new offerings.
At Penning
Breeding in the Netherlands, new amaryllis projects are underway every year to
develop more attractive and unique varieties. At the University of Florida in
Fort Lauderdale, an intensely fragrant amaryllis has been developed (‘Rio’),
but it has not yet made it to the marketplace (as far as I know). In South
Africa, the company Hadeco is continuing to produce amaryllis for consumers
around the world since its creation by two Dutch immigrants, Floor Barnhoorn
and Harry de Leeuw, in 1946.
So when you
bring your boxed amaryllis home from the store this season, remember its
heritage but also remember not to put it in your car trunk. This frost-tender
bulb will expire if left in freezing temperatures.
Ailsa’s
extra:
As long as
temperatures are above freezing, amaryllis bulbs can be sent through the mail.
Otherwise, you must rely on local sources or make your order early.
Growing and Caring for Amaryllis
Carl Hoffman and Mary Meyer, University of Minnesota
Amaryllis
(Hippeastrum species) are popular for their 6 to 10 inch trumpet shaped flowers
that are born on 1 to 2 foot stalks (scapes). Although red and scarlet are the
most popular colors, the flowers may be pink, white, salmon, apricot, rose,
bicolor or picotee (petals with a different edge color) and in both single and
double forms. Because they can produce flowers in mid-winter, they are prized
for the color they add to indoor landscapes. Amaryllis may be purchased as
bulbs or plants, in or near bloom. Blooming plants are often given and received
as gifts. Amaryllis plants should be kept out of direct sunlight while they are
in flower to prolong the life of the flowers.
Selecting and
Planting Bulbs
When growing
amaryllis from bulbs, careful selection of the bulbs is important because the
plant’s performance is influenced by both the size and condition of the bulb.
It is best to select the largest bulbs available as they will produce more
stalks and blooms the first year. The bulbs should be firm and dry with no
signs of mold, decay or injury.
Select a
container that is deep enough to allow adequate room for good root development
and has provisions for drainage. The diameter of the pot should be about ONE
inch larger than that of the bulb. Although this may seem small, amarylis bulbs
prefer a smaller container. Select a potting medium that has a high organic
matter, but drains well. The bulb should be positioned so that at least one-third,
preferably one-half, of the bulb is above the surface of the potting medium.
Firm the potting medium around the bulb, water it thoroughly and place the
container in a warm, sunny spot. Do not fertilize the bulb until it begins to
grow. After growth appears, it is essential to fertilize the plants regularly
with a fertilizer that has high phosphorus content. Move the plant out of
direct sunlight when the flower buds have begun to show color.
After-flowering Care
The secret to
successfully growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after
they have finished blooming. After the flowers have faded, cut them off to
prevent seed formation. Do not remove the flower stalk until it has turned
yellow; it will help manufacture food that will be stored in the bulb. If the
bulb does not produce a flowering stalk the next blooming period, it has not
stored enough nutrients during the post-blooming period. It is important that
amaryllis receive plenty of bright sunlight after they have finished blooming
so place it in the brightest possible location indoors. Water the plant from
the top of the container thoroughly whenever the top 2 inches of the soil is
dry to the touch. Empty any excess water that drains from the pot as wet soil
will promote root and bulb rot. Continue to fertilize the plant regularly.
When all
danger of frost is past, acclimate the plant to the outdoors by first placing
it in shade or indirect light. Gradually move it to a bright garden or bed
where it will receive full sun for at least 6 hours daily. Sink the pot into
the soil and fertilize with a balanced houseplant fertilizer monthly to build
up nutrients for flower production the next year. Amaryllis plants should be
brought indoors before the first frost in the fall. Amaryllis do not require a
resting period and will bloom if kept evergreen. However, blooming time can be
controlled by allowing the bulb to go through a resting period. After bringing
the potted plants indoors, store them in a dark place like a basement or cool
closet (above freezing) and do not water. Do not remove the foliage until it
has become dry and shriveled. The bulbs can be forced into bloom again after
resting for 8 to 12 weeks. Inspect the bulbs periodically and bring them into
light if new growth appears. If no new growth appears, they can be forced to
bloom by bringing them into bright light and watering the soil thoroughly.
Usually one or more flower stalks appear first, but occasionally they are
preceded by leaves. Flowers usually develop in about 4-6 weeks from dormant
bulbs, so they can be timed to flower at Christmas or for Valentine’s Day.
Amaryllis
plants bloom best when they are potbound so they will require repotting only
every 3 or 4 years. The best time to repot them is after they have gone through
a dormant period, and you are bringing them up from the basement to reflower.
Follow the same potting procedure as with a newly purchased bulb.
Pests and
Diseases
Although
there are several insects, mites and disease organisms that may attack
amaryllis plants under greenhouse conditions, they are not as prevalent on
amaryllis grown in homes. Careful inspection when purchasing bulbs accompanied
by proper watering and good sanitation practices will prevent most insect infestations
as well as the development of diseases.
The narcissus
bulb fly (Merodon spp.) may lay its eggs in the bulbs of amaryllis plants that
are placed outdoors for the summer. The maggot larvae begin to feed in the
outer scales of the bulb and eventually work their way into the interior of the
bulb. The foliage of infested plants may become wilted, yellow and distorted
and the plant will eventually die. The exterior of the bulb may appear normal,
but will reveal rotting tissue when pressed. Because control is difficult, it
is best to destroy any infested bulbs as soon as the pest is identified. Use of
insecticides is generally ineffective.
Red blotch
(Stagonospora curtissi) is a fungus disease that may affect both the appearance
and the health of amaryllis plants. Red spots or blotches that develop into
elongated cankers with red borders may develop on the base of the flower stalks
and emerging leaves. The disease is often difficult to diagnose because small
red or pink patches may appear on the outside of healthy bulbs. These marks
should, however, be superficial with the fleshy layers beneath white and free
of markings of any kind. Although the leaves may become distorted and the
flower stalks may break easily making the plants unsightly, the disease is
usually not fatal to the plant. Careful inspection of bulbs and the use of
sterile potting mixtures will serve as preventative measures. If the disease
persists even with good cultural and sanitation practices, the bulbs can be
treated with a systemic fungicide.
Amaryllis
require some care and attention throughout the year, but those beautiful
trumpet shaped flowers are a great reward in the long months of winter.
Garden Q&A: House plants bring gardening indoors
By Steve Piskor (http://www.post-gazette.com)
Now that our
gardens are put to bed for the winter, we can scratch our gardening itch by
adding some new house plants to our collections.
The plants
listed are divided into two groups -- easy-care house plants and Rex begonias
as house plants. For the gardener who wants a beautiful plant that requires
minimal attention, the easy-care group is the way to go. If you want more of a
challenge, try experimenting with Rex or painted leaf begonias. Once you have
success growing them, they can become addictive.
While some of
these plants flower, they are primarily grown for the form, texture and color
of their leaves. Their beautiful foliage adds to the interior, not only for the
upcoming holidays, but also for the months that follow, and in the summer
months they can be grown outdoors in containers.
Easy-care
house plants
This group of
houseplants needs only indirect light, attention to watering, and no fertilizer
until early spring. Add a pinch of tender loving care, and you will be on your
way to success.
Aglaonema
'Sparkling Sarah': This new aglaonema (Chinese evergreen) has green leaves
dappled with pink and cream highlights, pink mid veins and light pink stems.
'Sparkling Sarah' would be a spectacular plant for the holidays. Grow in
indirect light and evenly moist potting soil. Grows 18 to 24 inches high.
Dracaena
'Lemon Surprise': With beautiful foliage colorations and form, this plant's
lance-shaped, variegated leaves are a vivid lime-green with thin white stripes
surrounding and interspersed within the dark green center. The slightly twisted
leaves give the plant an interesting form. Grow in medium to bright light;
evenly moist potting soil. Grows to 24 inches high.
Epipremnum
'Neon': Commonly known as pothos. What is not common about this new cultivar is
its coloration -- beautiful fluorescent chartreuse! Because this plant has a
vining habit, it is nicely suited for a hanging basket or a wide, shallow
container. Grow in indirect light; evenly moist potting soil. Grows several
feet or more in length; however, it looks best when it is pruned to keep it
full and bushy.
Philodendron
'Black Cardinal': The leaves of this philodendron are broadly oval or
lance-shaped, emerging with a burgundy-red color. They mature to a deep
burgundy, almost black coloration. Combine 'Black Cardinal' with plants having
chartreuse foliage for a dramatic combination. Grow in bright, indirect light;
evenly moist potting soil. Can grow to 24 inches tall.
P. 'Pink
Princess': A slow-growing, vining, philodendron that sports beautiful pink,
white, green and almost black leaves. Because this philodendron is of the
vining type, a stake or small trellis should be added to the container. Grow in
bright, indirect light; evenly moist potting soil. Can grow to 48 inches tall,
with staking.
Spathyphyllum
'Domino': Most of us are familiar with the smooth-textured green-leafed plant
with the common name of peace lily. This new cultivar represents a big leap forward.
The leaves have a crinkled texture with large and small splotches of
creamy-white variegation. Grow in medium light; evenly moist potting soil.
(Note: Keep the soil moist at all times.) Can grow to 24 inches tall.
Rex begonias
as house plants
We generally
think of begonias as bedding plants, but Rex begonias with their distinctive
leaf forms, colors and textures are more suitable to containers and indoor
culture. These begonias prefer bright, indirect light, elevated humidity and a
lightly moist but fast draining potting soil. (Note: Begonias will not tolerate
overwatering.)
Rex begonias
are differentiated from other begonias by their leaves, which grow on short
stalks from an underground rhizome. Both the leaves and stems are covered with
short hairs. The flowers are generally inconspicuous and are removed to
encourage foliage production. The plants listed below are the Rex type, unless
noted otherwise.
Begonia
'Cancun Christmas': This aptly named begonia will certainly add to the holiday
spirit. The festive green and red foliage is speckled with numerous silvery
white splotches. Grows 12 inches tall.
B. 'Curly
Emma': The wavy foliage of this Rex is accentuated by a deep center curl; the
leaves emerge as green/silver and mature to a deep red and chocolate. Grows 12
inches high.
B.
'Fireworks': Noted for its silvery-white foliage and an explosion of
purplish-black fireworks in the center of each leaf. Makes a striking hanging
basket. Grows 12 inches tall and wide.
B. 'Gryphon': Even though this begonia is
not a Rex, it is worth growing. The deep-green palmate leaves are thick and
glossy and overlaid with silver. This elegant begonia makes an excellent
container plant that eventually reaches 18 to 24 inches tall and wide.
B. 'Ring of
Fire': The foliage of this begonia definitely says Christmas. 'Ring of Fire'
makes a dramatic statement with its vibrant red rim and silver patterning set
against deep green veining. Its brilliance holds even as the leaves age, which
makes this Rex hybrid a winner. It has a mounding habit and grows 12 inches
high and wide.
B. 'Silver
Queen': This Rex has large creamy-silver leaves punctuated with emerald- green
star-like centers and edged with matching green banding. Grows 12 to 18 inches
high and wide.
The
descriptions given for each of the plants really don't do them justice. Visit
the Internet to see why each has its own unique beauty and can fit into any
decor.
Philodendron set new world record
Sun-Journal, Lewiston Maine – 7/10/1989
Only a sprig
is left. But for 3 years a University of
Massachusetts professor grew and grew…and grew the world’s largest
philodendron.
The vine
reached his living room ceiling and wound up, down and around itself. At Christmas time he strung colored lights
from it while it kept on growing until it reached a record 1,114 feet.
And then Jack
Francis chopped it down.
“It was a bit
of a sentimental moments, because it had been around so long. I bought it as a little sprout in Sears when
we first moved to Amherst”, Francis said.
But sentiment
aside, Francis said he was forced to fell his prized philodendron.
“That was the
only way we could measure it for the record and, to tell you the truth, I was
getting a bit tired of it,” he said.
“Chopped into four-foot lengths, it stacked up like cordwood.”
His children,
who grew up with the philodendron, persuaded him to submit it to the Guinness
Book of World Records. And two years
later, he and his plant are still enjoying their day in the sun.
“I did it as a
joke, and no one was more surprised than I when they accepted it,” Francis
said. “And if I’d only realized the sort
of attention it would get, I’d at least have taken a proper picture of it.”
Horti-Culture Corner
"The White Falcon"— Koryusai
by Brad Shurmantine
I
The coffee pours right into the cup--
doors open
without falling off their hinges:
in general things hold together this good morning;
the skyline does not collapse,
brown birds fall from the rooftops
& rise again, beaks full of straw . . .
No one's read my poems in a year.
I've taken to talking to my plants,
good for them I'm told--
a philodendron leaf, freshly unfurled,
drips & shines, basking in my praise.
II
among moonlit chrysanthemums the white falcon
poses, his white wings tremble,
he will not wait for the day
to hurtle himself forth,
he will not wait--
but he waits.
Amaryllis
By Connie Wanek
A flower needs to be this size
to conceal the winter window,
and this color, the red
of a Fiat with the top down,
to impress us, dull as we've grown.
Months ago the gigantic onion of a bulb
half above the soil
stuck out its green tongue
and slowly, day by day,
the flower itself entered our world,
closed, like hands that captured a moth,
then open, as eyes open,
and the amaryllis, seeing us,
was somehow undiscouraged.
It stands before us now
as we eat our soup;
you pour a little of your drinking water
into its saucer, and a few crumbs
of fragrant earth fall
onto the tabletop.
