February 2011

Planters Punchlines

Men's Garden Club of Wethersfield
February 2011
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Next Meeting - Monday February 28th
@ COMSTOCK FERRE @ 7:00 p.m.

The garden club has been invited to meet at Comstock Ferre and will hear from Linda Pricone (Store Manager) about the current plans for Comstock Ferre and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, its new owner.

Spouses and guests are cordially invited.

Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan

Wethersfield's Pride and Joy is Gone

According to Dr. Mel Goldstein, television weatherman and author,

"The [September 21] 1938 hurricane was truly the 'perfect storm'. Most of Connecticut was on the dangerous right-hand sector where the storm's circulation combines with the storm's northward motion to enhance the force of the wind. The storm was moving at nearly 60 miles per hour, so that flow from the south combined with the strong south wind...to deliver winds well in excess of 100 miles per hour."

All of this was exacerbated by the surprise with which it struck. At that time it was generally believed that storms of this magnitude just DID NOT happen in New England, and as a result meteorological clues were ignored. This was truly "the storm of the century".

The 1938 hurricane was the third most intense tropical cyclone to ever strike north of Florida - only Hurricanes Hugo (1989) and Hazel (1954) - were fiercer. In total more than 75,000 buildings were damaged or destroyed, 688 people were killed (4 of them in Hartford), and 4,500 were injured (3 in Wethersfield).

"Deluged by torrential rain squalls for the past six days, Wethersfield was literally torn asunder Wednesday afternoon by a wind and rain storm of hurricane proportions." Two persons were injured in town. Samuel Pollock of Hartford was hospitalized when a large tree fell on the fruit truck that he was driving near Hart's Tourist Camp on the Berlin Turnpike. Daniel Bond of Nott Street hurt his left arm when he fell from a Connecticut Company repair truck. Five days later, on September 26, a tree that was being cut down by workmen in front of Legion Hall struck Joseph Nogas, also of Nott Street.

Hundreds of trees were uprooted or broken and "virtually every street was rapidly transformed into a mess of tangled foliage, electric and telephone wires, and fallen poles." A set of five electric light and telephone poles on Wolcott Hill Road between Nott Street and Jordan Lane were brought to the ground, halting traffic. Some telephone service was restored by the evening of the storm but "electric service was badly crippled while workers labored to repair lines and furnish power from the new substation of the Hartford Electric Light Company on Nott Street."

Trolley service was almost completely shut down due to trees that had fallen onto the cable lines. Roofs were ripped of several houses including those of Joseph on Hart Street, Arthur Jaquith of Garden Street and John E. Rust on Marsh Street. "Wethersfield Cove became a raging sea under impetus of the wind which at times lifted quantities of water from the surface and swept it in dense white mist across the cove." Legion Hall, which had a joint installation ceremony of the Russell K. Bourne Post and Auxiliary scheduled for that evening instead became the town's emergency relief headquarters

Even with all of the above damage, the most serious casualty however may have been a single tree that had lived in the town for over three hundred years.

In his novel, "Lady", Wethersfield native Thomas Tryon wrote:

"In my youth, the Green was populated not only with strollers and game-players and children and dogs, but with the ancient elms that were the pride of Connecticut, one of them being the largest in America. Visitors would go out of their way to drive by and take pictures of it, and of Lady's house. The Great Elm - what a tree was that. It grew halfway between our house and hers, one hundred feet high, the trunk almost forty feet in circumference, and must have been something short of two centuries old when it died of the Dutch blight. But while it lived, how grand it was."

The story of The Great Elm began in the middle of the Eighteenth century. According to James T. Smith of Wethersfield: "John Smith was a great uncle of mine. He went to his pasture 3 miles south west of where the tree stands now after cattle and got off from his horse to get a stick to drive the cattle and pulled this tree up. It was in a wet place, and brought it home horseback and set it out. The Smiths were among the first settlers of Wethersfield and this property has always been in the family."

The pasture was at what is now the border of Rocky Hill and Wethersfield - off Maple Street - known at that time as "Hangdog Hill". John Smith was 12 years old when the tree was planted in 1745.

One hundred thirty-eight years later (1883) the four largest branches were measured at 16'8", 11'6", 10'3" and 8'7" in circumference according to another James T. Smith document. In 1905 it was reported as having a girth of 26'4" at three feet from the ground, a North-to-South spread of 130', East to West spread of 137', a circumference spread of 450', and a height of about 125'.

By 1924 it was considered the largest elm in the United States with a trunk that measured 28 feet around. "On the morning after the hurricane of 1938, only four of its six magnificent branches, one of them fortunately the largest, seventeen feet in girth, were left standing."

The Great Elm had been materially damaged. It survived another fifteen years in this weakened condition. Then, after a three-day struggle to remove the thirty-five ton stump, it was taken down on May 29, 1953 by Tree Surgeon William George and workers of the town Park Department - a victim of Dutch Elm disease, and the hurricane of 1938.

The Hartford times reported, "Wethersfield's pride and joy is gone."

(You can learn about more of Wethersfield's "Top Ten Natural Disasters" in the "Articles from the Community" section of the Wethersfield Historical Society website (www.wethhist.org) where this essay first appeared.)

How to Over Winter Plants
(lovetoknow.com)

Winter is the time when most plants rest and recover from a busy year of making your yard gorgeous. Here are some helpful tips from Danielle Ernest to help you help your plants.
Danielle Ernest: The definition of over-wintering means to care for a plant (annual or tropical) that typically doesn't make it through the winters in your zone by bringing that plant into your home - living area, basement, garage - to keep it alive from year to year. Because if left outside, it would not be able to survive due to the level of coldness in your growing area.

Q: What plants are best suited for over wintering?

A: Plants that are typically over-wintered are plants we treat as annuals but are actually tender perennials such as geraniums, impatiens, sweet potato vine, etc. The other category of plants that are over-wintered are tropicals such as bananas, philodendron or any plant that would be typically sold as an indoor plant for your region of the country.

For instance, when I lived in Michigan many gardeners would use spider plants and Boston ferns to decorate their outdoor living spaces. Those plants are considered tropical in Michigan and would not survive the below zero winter temperatures. They would need to be over-wintered indoors.

Really, these plants don't need special treatment. It is up to gardeners if they prefer to over-winter plants indoors or if they prefer to buy those annuals and tropicals from year to year.

Personally, I prefer to buy annuals from year to year. I don't have a lot of room to over-winter plants in my house and I have animals that tend to eat any plant that I bring into my home. So really, it is up to the individual. I believe it is often a personal challenge that experienced gardeners set for themselves. Everyone likes to push the limits - I always did this with my garden in Michigan when it came to sun/shade and zone requirements.

Q: What are some basic steps for protecting plants through the winter?

A: For perennials and shrubs that you are keeping outdoors in the ground during the winter, you really do not need any protection. This is the time that plants take to go into dormancy and refuel on energy for the next spring - similar to what animals do when going into hibernation. Shrubs and perennials in containers may need some special treatment to last the winter.

The tip I give to beginning gardeners is to know your zone. All you need to do is put your zip code into the search box on the Proven Winners site. For instance, I am in zone 7B where I now live in Washington state. That means when I go to the garden center, I need to look for plants that will survive in 7B or lower (6, 5, 4, etc). These would work in my garden. Once you become more familiar with your garden, there will be spots where plants that normally wouldn't survive, say a zone 8 plant, can survive because there is a micro-climate being created, maybe from the heat of your home.

Q: How are plants prepared for bringing them indoors and what kind of care will they need indoors for the winter?

A: Typically, most homes do not have enough full sun window space to bring plants indoors successfully. This, however, is not a reflection of the gardener that you are. Plants need to receive proper lighting, water and fertilizer to grow throughout months where we typically do not get long days due to the time of the year (fall and winter). The low humidity is a contributing factor to why some are unsuccessful as well. Many gardeners that over-winter plants have assisted lighting with grow lights, small greenhouses and sunrooms to be successful.

First off, it is important to get your plants indoors before your first frost. If the leaves are damaged by frost, it is going to be hard to get them to recover and may not be worth the effort.
When bringing plants indoors from outside, you will want to inspect the plant for insects or disease. If there are signs of insects or disease, you will want to use a spray of your choice to get rid of them before bringing the plant indoors. You should also remove any diseased leaves or stems. It is almost better to be more cautious then not on this topic. I would consider spraying for insects even if you don't see them at that time because once they are indoors - they are indoors.

Since the plant will experience stress during the transition, it is best to select plants that look extremely healthy for better success. If the plant is in a container, the transition is extremely easy, but if they are planted in-ground the plant must be dug up and planted in a container. This is when I say, "Forget it, I'll just buy it next year," but to each their own. When digging up this plant, make sure to get a good portion of its roots and plant it in a container with fresh potting soil that has fertilizer incorporated in the mix.

After planting, make sure to give the plant a good drink of water. This means water until you see water coming out of the drainage holes. I would consider letting the plant get used to its new container home for a couple days outdoors in a lower lighted area before moving it inside. For plants that have been in containers all summer, water thoroughly and give it the recommended fertilizer rate.

Once the plant is brought indoors, it is important to place it in a location that gets as much sun as it was receiving outdoors originally. Plants may be placed in a greenhouse, sunroom, bright window or under grow lights if needed.

I would not recommend digging up the plant, placing it in a different light level and shearing it all at the same time. The amount of shock a plant goes through may influence whether it lives or dies. After the plant has been in the home for a couple weeks, I would then decide to cut-it back.

If the foliage continuous to look healthy, then proceed with cutting back the stems 1/2 inch. Make sure to clean your cutting instrument between plants with lightly soapy water or rubbing alcohol to prevent the spread of disease.

To help with low-humidity, use a shallow dish and fill with clean gravel and water. The evaporation of the water will provide your plant with humidity. Also, a spray bottle can be used to mist the leaves a couple of times a week instead of the above recommendation.

While your plants are indoors, fertilizing them is not necessary unless you notice that the plant is growing quite a bit. If that is the case, lightly fertilize them only once a month or so. Watering will only be necessary when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then water until a small amount of water comes out of the drainage holes - you do not want to over water the plant. If you have a hard time determining when the plant needs to be watered, I always recommend using a tray and filling it with water so that the plant can drink the water as needed by sucking it up through it roots. This method is most useful for me.

Typically, plants that are over-wintered indoors tend to stretch to the necessary light source. In the spring, when the plants are transitioned back outdoors a light shearing can take place again.

Q: What else should gardeners know about over wintering plants?

A: It is important to not let worries about over-wintering affect you as a gardener.

Over-wintering plants is difficult - even nurseries and greenhouses lose plants during the winter months, but that is all part of gardening. If you fail, try, try again.

Even those with degrees in horticulture can have black thumbs, but that doesn't stop us from trying. Believe me, I am one of them. Gardening is all about the learning process and you can really learn a lot from others around you. Don't be ashamed to ask for help.

Horti-Culture Corner

Winter Morning Poem
By Ogden Nash

Winter is the king of showmen
Turning tree stumps into snowmen
And houses into birthday cakes
And spreading sugar over lakes.

Growing Plants Using a Garden Cloche
By Edwin Lloyd

(A garden cloche is an alternate name for a bell jar. Typically, the bell jar is rounded glass with no bottom that can be set over collectibles to display them. In gardening, the garden cloche was once solely made of glass but now may be made of many clear materials. It is placed over young plants to protect them from insects or harsh weather. The original cloche designs had a bell shape, which is no surprise because the word cloche is a direct translation from the French for the term bell. Usually when the term garden cloche is used, it infers outdoor usage of the cloche.)

Did you know you don't have to use ugly polytunnels to stop young plants succumbing to the elements, flying pests, birds and cats any more? Keen gardeners will be glad to know an old fashioned idea is back in vogue to stop young plants being destroyed by the harsher extremes of the climate: the simple yet effective garden cloche. These devices date right back to the Victorian era, when large bell shaped glass jars were used in the garden to protect new shoots against the winter weather. They have enjoyed a renaissance in modern times, made from durable polystyrene but keeping true to the Victorian design. Using them couldn't be simpler and you'll be surprised at what you can achieve with them both indoors and in the garden.

Why Use A Garden Cloche?

Protect New Growth Against The Weather: The cloches should help stop you losing money through bedding and other plants simply dying in adverse weather conditions.

Promote the best conditions for healthy growth: A good quality modern garden cloche comes equipped with an adjustable air vent to allow the gardener to regulate the air flow around the plant, as it circulates in and out of the cloche. This helps you ensure that the plants inside always have favourable temperatures for optimal growth.

Keep The Birds away: An ideal solution to stop your prized blooms and vegetables becoming a tasty meal for the local birds.

Keep Flying Pests Away: Airborne insects simply don't stand a chance with the tough polystyrene layer shielding your plants.

Keep Cats Away: Another annoyance for some gardeners is the unwelcome fouling of cats in beds, etc. Fouling can sometimes be harmful to plants but again, your plants are shielded.

Add Aesthetic Value To Your Garden: Garden cloches dotted around provide a delightful and eye-catching sight, a beautiful display that draws the eye to the luxuriant plants inside. They also look wonderful in a double row, for example, over young lettuce to provide more appeal to an otherwise dull-looking area of prepared ground. Whether your garden design is traditional or more contemporary, cloches seem to blend in well. The shape somehow looks modern enough in a newer design, and of course fits in well with more traditionally themed gardens- after all, they are a traditional "gardener's friend".

How To Install and Use Your Garden Cloche: The modern designs are held securely to the earth using ground pegs, supplied with the cloche. Simply peg them down over the plants you want to protect, making sure no foliage is trapped under the rim of the bell. It really couldn't be easier.

They come in a variety of sizes, for example, from around 8 inches by 10 inches to around 14 by 18 inches.

How to Take Care of a Hydrangea Bush During the Winter
by CJ Writer for www.brighthub.com

Many plant lovers struggle with how to take care of a hydrangea bush during the winter months. Just because the plant looks dead, doesn't mean that you don't need to care for it. Take these steps to care for your hydrangea so that it revives in the spring.

Hydrangeas are one of the most beautiful and confusing plants for gardeners, especially when it comes to winter care. Hydrangeas produce large, beautiful blossoms in the spring and summer but die back to brown sticks during winter. Many people mistakenly assume the bush is dead, but it is actually resting until the next spring. Even though the bush does not look alive, there are several things gardeners must do to take care of a hydrangea bush during winter months.

Winter Temperature Requirements for Hydrangeas: First, determine what the lowest average temperature in your region is so that you will know whether to perform major winterizing techniques. Most hydrangea varieties can withstand winter temperatures down to approximately 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. If temperatures fall below this for one or two days, the hydrangeas will survive. If temperatures stay consistently below this level, you must protect the bushes.

The only type of hydrangea bush that needs major winter protection is the H. macrophylla, also known as mop heads or lacetops. If you have Paniculata or Annabelle hydrangeas, they will do just fine in all of North America with just a little mulch, according to the Hydrangeas Hydrangeas website.

Protecting Hydrangeas in Frigid Climates: If you live in a region that stays frigid, here is a simple method to keep the hydrangea warm and happy. Insert one wooden stake into the ground at each corner of the bush, so that the stakes form a square. Unroll some chicken wire, or other metal fencing material with small holes, and wrap it all the way around the stakes so that it encircles the bush. The only requirement for the wire is that it must be tall enough to cover the top of the hydrangea. Cut the excess wire from the roll using tin snips and staple the chicken wire to the wooden stakes using a staple gun. You can use piece of wire, or twist ties to secure the free edges of the wire together.

Fill the entire enclosure with leaves, pine straw, hay or other dry organic matter until it covers the entire bush. Do not pack the material down, since the trapped air will act as an additional insulator. Check the bush every one to two weeks and add additional leaves if they settle.
Mulch to Protect the Hydrangea Root System: Hydrangeas that grow in warmer climates may not require total insulation, but they still need protection. In the mid to late fall, spread a 3 to 4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the hydrangea bush to protect the roots from cold temperature. The mulch also conserves much needed moisture near the roots during the dry winter. You do not need to water hydrangeas during winter, since the roots are dormant and can last until spring on normal soil moisture.

Is the Hydrangea Bush Dead or Just Dormant?: If you are wondering whether the bush is dead and all of theses measures are a waste, cut off one branch of the hydrangea near the base using pruning shears. Look at the inside center of the tip you cut and see if it is moist and white or slightly green in color. If so, then your hydrangea is just fine and will rebloom the following year.

So after you have cut back your garden to prepare for winter, make sure the plants are properly protected from the cold. If you take care of a hydrangea bush during the winter months, it will reward you with large, showy blooms and lush foliage the next spring.

Items Needed: Wooden Stakes, Chicken Wire, Tin snips, Leaves, hay or pine straw, Mulch

When and how should I prune my butterfly bush?
(butterflybushes.com)

We suggest cutting butterfly bushes back to about 4 feet high for the winter (so that heavy winter snow won't crush the bush to the ground). And don't cut the butterfly bushes back too early; November is our recommendation.

Depending upon the severity of winter, your butterfly bush may appear dead in spring. Don't despair. Even when a butterfly bush doesn't develop leaf buds on the previous year's branches, it will usually sprout new growth from the root system. Be patient though. It might be late May before your butterfly bush shows signs of new growth.

In early June, cut off any branches which died over the winter. This is also a good time to trim the butterfly bush to the shape you'd like it to be.

During its blooming period, usually mid July through September, you might deadhead (remove spend flowers) every two weeks or so. This assures that the bush will put its energy into producing more flowers rather than seed.

How to Tell If a Rose Bush Has Died After Winter
(www.gardenguides.com)

Rose canes can take a beating over the winter months, suffering through wind, cold, snow, freezing rain and even drought stress. This can leave the exterior of older canes looking dead, but that may only be superficial. Gentle scraping of canes can help determine if healthy, productive wood remains and how much of it. Roses with significant dead tissue can still survive, according to Colorado State University. Testing the plant in several areas and with progressive pruning will help determine if the plant can be salvaged.

Step 1: Rub the exterior skin on a stem away and look for blackened or dark brown canes. These are signs of dead canes.

Step 2: Cut unhealthy canes down progressively to look for healthy tissue. Cut each cane down to roughly 18 inches above the soil and look for signs of life. If the tissue looks dead at that point, cut the cane down to the crown of the plant. If the tissue is dead down to the crown or graft union, the plant is dead.

Step 3: Dig down and look at the root tissues. Healthy rose root tissues will be firm and white to light gray in color. Dead root tissues will be brown and can become slick or slimy with rot. Dead roots signify a lost plant that is dead or dying.