Monday, February 8, 2016

February 2016

-->
Planters Punchlines

Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield

February 2016

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"Weird and Wonderful Gardens of the World "

@ Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield February Meeting

Monday February 22 @ 7:00 pm in the Pitkin Community Center



Dr. Richard W. Benfield, Chair of the Department of Geography at Central Connecticut State University will talk about “Weird and Wonderful Gardens of the World”.



Compostable Matter

By Jim Meehan



The Space Between the images

           
Former club member Phillip Iannucci told a story about how it came to be said that gardeners have a “green thumb”.  Hint – it’s not a symbol of natural ability but rather the result of something more like horticultural Obsessive Compulsive Disorder.
             
In his heavy Italian accent and mellifluous voice Phil explained how even when a plantsman goes out into his yard without his tools – wearing his “Sunday best”, and with nothing in mind other than enjoying the setting – he cannot help but reach out with his bare hand and snap off that single tiny twig that totally spoils his view – and in the process leak virescent sap onto his fingertips staining them with the gardener’s badge of honor.

             
Would anybody else even notice the offending slender little branch shoot?  Probably not.  But we plant people can’t see anything but that insult to perfection – until we notice the next one.

             
Gardeners are tinkerers – never quite happy with what nature provides.  We are dead certain that just one more flower in just the right spot can actually make the world a perfect place.  And then another.  And another. 

             
Say you are visiting a public garden.  Do you find yourself grabbing your own wrist in order to hold back the pruning pincers of your dominant hand?  Do you see what is there? Or is it what could be there if only they let you have a few hours to fix things? 

             
Have you ever been caught under the cover of darkness plucking weeds from your neighbor’s garden?  Or even worse, have you relocated any of their shrubs that run along the border of your property – or in other places?  Or secretly introduced “something special” into one of their flowerbeds?

             
Even haphazard landscape designers like me – whose idea of a strategic plan is to see a plant that needs saving (like Teasel from Christa Swenkyj’s about-to be-sold property), dig it up, and jam it into the first piece of available space that I see in our own yard – are following their own (largely unknown to them) private blueprint.

            
 Our daughter-in-law and son are both graphic designers – plus she is a gardener. Together they create comic books.  And he also teaches that craft at a University of Art and Design in New Mexico. Recently he was asked by a local newspaper to explain the difference between stories presented in that graphic form as opposed to other media.

             
“Prose and film offer continuous story construction, comics do not. The reader is a participant when reading a comic…filling in the images that aren't shown and designing a story uniquely theirs.”

             
Likewise we gardeners see the blank spaces in the natural world  – and endlessly create our own plots to fill in those gaps.  The rest of you just don’t know all of the fun you are missing.



Story of the Great Elm (1750-1950)

By Jared B. Standish

           

Last month’s speaker, Frank Kaputa of the Connecticut Notable Trees Project, talked briefly about the “Wethersfield Elm”.  The following article, written by Jared B. Standish in 1959, is from the archives of Wethersfield Historical Society.

             
According to a memoranda book kept by James Smith, father of the present occupant of the premises abutting, Mr. Charles H. Smith states that John Smith, an uncle who died in 1818, aged 72, pulled it up near “Hang Dog Hill” to drive home his cows from the public cow pasture in Stepney West District (when he was about twelve years old).

             
Arriving home it was set out in the “Common” front of their home.  According to the record it should have been planted about 1750-8.

             
When it was about 10 to 15 years old, a heavy ice storm broke off the top, causing it to branch out in six arms reaching for sunlight.  In 1884 a large limb fell during a storm, its growth was so luxuriant.  James Smith told his son Edward (age 15) that he could have it if he would cut it up.  Edward made two and a fraction more cords of wood from it than most anyone else would.  A branch from the main limb fell in 1903 and three years ago in July, upon a quiet Sunday morning, a prominent arm thought it had reached out too far and with some expression lay down to an earned rest.  When this limb was sawn into three one-cord piles, the growth rings upon it were counted.  These favorably corresponded with the age recorded within the diary, allowing fifteen to twenty years for loss of youthful rings in the ice storm and its struggle to reach maturity.  The count figured One Hundred Forty-six, with a short balance grown so closely in the hard fibre as to be uncountable.

             
It was said that John Wesley preached a Revival service under its shade while upon a trip through the “New England” states.

             
Richard Belden was the first house owner upon the property beside the tree in 1641 (succeeding Samuel Boardman).  A later generation, Silas Belden, sold the homestead to Josiah Smith in 1742.  Four generations of James Smiths preceded the present occupant.  The old Belden house was taken down in 1864, when the present Smith Hone was built by Mary and her sister, Martha Smith (which has at this time received alterations).

             
In the early periods the “Broad Street Common” is said to have been very wet.  It is quite possible that “These Elms”, including others (of comparable proportions) four at the upper end of the Broad Street Common (on the west side gracing the front of Reverend Elisha Williams’ “NEW WILLIAMS HOUSE”, later occupied by his son, Elisha Williams, Jr. and Mehitable Burnham, his wife who, with his sister, Mary, built it in 1755 and presented it to their father fourteen days before he died) and another nearly as large as the “Great Elm”, which stood upon the opposite side of the Common in front or near the “Boardman Tavern” (where Jared Ingersol resigned his “Stamp Act” commission, September 19, 1765).  It was hollow and it has never been known how it caught fire and burned out inside by 1850.  All of them grew under very favorable conditions in this particular location for this specie of tree, completing a natural old-age limit, at this time 1750 to 1950.

             
In 1910 The American Genetic Association, Journal of Heredity, Washington, D.C., conducted a United States census of mammouth [sic] trees.  Our Village Improvement Association was requested to send a sample of leafage, branch and soil, together with measurements of our Great Tree.

             
This request was complied with, resulting in a complete record being entered at Washington as the “Largest Elm” of its species in the United States.


A reclaimed photograph, taken about 1871, showing the tree in vigorous youth, has been preserved in Washington and at Wethersfield, Conn., and was published in the “Journal of Heredity” during the year 1914.

             
Many statements regarding the age of this tree (and others) have been made in error carelessly, ranging from 100 to 400 years old.  Contest in question have frequently been brought to attention, in reference to other trees bearing close dimensions, in Marietta, Ohio, Hampton, Connecticut, (claiming to be 700 years old).  The “Rathbourn Tree”, Washington Elm at Wallingford, Connecticut, and others.





           
Letter to the American Genetic Association, Washington D.C. from the Office of the Board of Park Commissioners, Wethersfield, Conn., January 24. 1930
             
Dear Sirs:

             
It seems peculiarly fitting that it should devolve upon me to answer correspondence in this matter.  Still being in a position of authority as Secretary of the Board of Park Commissioners and also President of the Old Village Improvement Association (not yet dissolved) – to send to you as before in 1914, a definite statement relating to the “Great Elm”, within our jurisdiction, of which articles have been published widely.



I have caused a resurvey of our tree, which is as follows:

WETHERSFIELD ELM    OFFICIAL MEASUREMENT JANUARY 1930

Elevation        Diameter    Circumference        Spread

6′                    10’5″           32-0                        Diam. 165′

5′                      9’10”         36-6                        Cir.     518′

4′                      9’6″           29-6

3′                      9’9″           30-0

2′                    10’6″           32-0

1′                    12’6″           38-0

Ground level   14’6″           48-0                        
Area 21,382 cubic feet.



The tree is now only a memory, its life having closed this year 1950.



New & Notable: 10 Gadgets to Tech Out Your Garden




If you want to put your best gardening foot forward this spring, it is important to take your first steps in the right direction. Decisions you make in early spring have enormous impact on the health and appearance of your garden later in the season. To help you plant smart, we've compiled a list of 10 tech gadgets that can make your thumb a little greener. These tools use the latest technology and science to help you analyze, monitor, and tend to your plants. Check out this collection of smart tech, from pollen extractors to weather forecasters, that can help make this year's garden your best ever.

             
1) Gardener's Handbook App for Android  Cabbage patch got you stumped? This free Android app is like having a pro gardener at your side 24/7. Armed with 10 chapters chock-full of DIY gardening tips, landscaping ideas, and useful information, you will be well on your way to creating the garden of your dreams.

            
 2) Parrot Flower Power Plant Monitor  Want to be completely tuned in to your plant's needs? Invest in Parrot Flower Power, a wireless sensor that monitors your plant's moisture, temperature, light, and fertilizer levels, and then relays this info to your smartphone or other device via Bluetooth technology so you'll always know just what your plant needs. Available on Amazon; $60.

             
3) Garden Cam  See how your flowers grow—or see what critters may be causing them not to—with the Brinno GardenWatchCam. This 1.3 megapixel time-lapse digital camera can be set to snap photos at intervals from 1 minute to every 24 hours. Just stick the camera in your garden and watch your garden grow. Available on Amazon; $230.

             
4) Bosch Isio  Trim your hedges and shrubs with ease with the Isio shrub shear, a handheld multi-tool from Bosch. The lightweight design incorporates a lithium-ion battery that allows almost an hour of work on one charge—plenty of time, given the tool's efficiency and simple operation. A reciprocating motion lets the tool keep cutting through where others would stall. Available on Amazon; $62.

             
5) Garden Plan Pro iPad  Having trouble plotting your plot? The Garden Plan Pro app acts as a visual aid in laying out your patches before you pick up a spade. It also provides weather station data, gives advice on the best plants for your region, and offers information on more than 140 different species of flowers and vegetables.

             
6) Infragram  A DIY camera for your DIY garden, Infragram uses infrared technology to analyze the health of your plants and garden. Fun for kids and adults, novices or pros, this tool educates while illuminating the secret life of your garden. Available on Amazon; 62.

             
7) Cordless Pole Saw  Go greener with the rechargeable battery–powered G-Max pole saw from GreenWorks. Its cordless design features an eight-inch bar and chain for easy branch trimming. The lithium-ion battery retains memory after power is depleted, so you don't have to program it twice. A collapsible shaft extends from five to eight feet to reach a variety of trimming heights. Available on Amazon; $170.

             
8) VegiBee  Here's the go-to gadget for gardening connoisseurs looking to fine-tune their craft. The VegiBee imitates the high-frequency vibrations of a bee’s wings during pollination. The vibrations release pollen onto a spoon, which the gardener can then use to hand-pollinate other plants. The reward? A 30 percent increase in crop yield and the satisfaction of giving Mother Nature a helping hand. Available on Amazon; $29.

             
9) Netatmo Weather Station  This personal weather station stands above the rest by monitoring the indoor environment as well as the outdoor weather. Among other features, the Netatmo Weather Station measures indoor CO2 concentration and provides the local Air Quality Index report in real time. Netatmo links to your smartphone, keeping track of what is best for you, your plants, and your garden. Available on Amazon; $149.

             
10) Garden Owl    This realistic-looking Garden Defense Electronic Owl takes the original stationary garden decoy a big step further by adding movement and sound. Not only does it look like a great horned owl, but when its sensors detect that garden pests are near, it will turn its head in that direction and hoot, scaring the critters away. Available on Amazon; $45.



How to Tell a Rose Bush is Dead

by Patricia H. Reed




Roses rest over the winter -- even in mild winters -- to build strength for their lush growth in spring, summer and into fall in warm climates. During the dormant period, roses lose their blooms and leaves. Cold temperatures cause tender growth to darken and die back. However, don't give a rose up for dead because canes are leafless, black and dead-looking as other roses emerge from dormancy; take the time to thoroughly assess its condition before declaring your rose a goner.

             
1. Examine canes for swelling buds in late winter from tip to base. Buds may just look like tiny raised reddish nubs as they emerge from the stem.

             
2..Look for green or deep red stems at the base of the plant. Cold-damaged canes that are black at the tip may still be green and living near the base. The delineation between living and dead tissue is usually apparent, at least on young canes. Older stems may be brownish-gray with a thin, barklike skin.

            
 3.Scratch at the skin of a cane with your fingernail looking for green tissue just beneath the surface. This is the plant's cambium layer, which produces new cells. If there is no green, the cane is dead.

             
4. Clean bypass pruners with household antiseptic cleaner at full strength. The cleaner is as effective at eliminating any lingering plant fungi or disease from the tools as rubbing alcohol or bleach -- often recommended for the purpose -- but is less corrosive to metal tools.

             
5. Put on leather gloves.

            
6.  Prune back all canes with dead areas back to green wood, if any, and cut out congested canes in the center of the plant in late winter.

             
7. Clean the blades between each cut when dealing with canes you think may be diseased.

             
8. Check the plant for signs of buds and new shoots in a week or two, Older rose bushes, or the oldest canes on a rose bush, can take longer to bud than younger stems.

             
9. Dig lightly at the base of a plant before removing it and check the plant's roots. Firm, light-colored roots are healthy.



Knock Out Roses - Pros/Cons?

A forum from gardenweb.com



Ok.. So.. I am not familiar with Knock Out Roses.



What are the good Vs. Bad points?



dublinbay z6 (KS)     



Good Points:

Brilliant splash of color, especially on the cherry red ones.



Easy care. Exceptionally disease-resistant.



Bloom and rebloom a lot.



One of the first to bloom in the spring.



Self-cleaning--in that you don't have to deadhead (but the bushes look neater if you do--at least some).



Good starter rose for the timid or unsure. They will feel like an instant success.



Bad points

Individual blooms are not very interesting.



Don't think they are very fragrant, but I'm not sure about that.



Everybody and their second cousin has one. I'm really getting tired of seeing them everywhere (although I own 2 Double Knock Outs).



Can get rather large, a problem if you are looking for a smaller rose. (Double Knock Out seems to be a bit smaller.)



You'll miss out on the incredibly varied and beautiful world of roses if you stop with Knock Out.



That's about all I can think of. There really aren't many down sides to KOs.



Kate



If you ever have a chance go to a rose show. Look at all the roses there. From my beloved modern varities to the Heirloom roses(OGR's), there is different beauty, form, fragrance and color in abundance. But from commercial shopping centers to gas station landscaping, every rose is the same basic Knock Out. It almost has replaced Stella De Oro Daylilies as the "plastic plant" of the strip mall. I've seen KO's used judiciously in the landscape and it adds to the overall effect, but just planted in mass?...I'm so tired of it (along with the basic philosophy of instant gratification without effort).

 Like    Bookmark     May 11, 2008 at 5:21PM

rosesnpots(z8 Tidewater area VA)   



Pros - What Karl said.



Cons -

Boring to look at - each one looks the same no matter what color they are.

Around here, they all have a spindly look about them.



To me varity is the spice of life and in reality, if you select the correct roses for your area as I do, OGRs, Austins, Beales , etc roses are no harder to care for.



catsrose(VA 6)           



They are the fast food of the rose world, pluses and minuses.



gypsysunrise 



Thank you to all who responded! I had seen them at Lowes, and liked how they had so many blooms at once. I bought one that was on a clearance rack, "Rosa RADrazz", and then after looking them up online, noticed a lot of people didn't seem to care for them...so I wondered. lol

It makes sense to me, now... Anything that is overdone can get boring. =)



ecobug(z6a Idaho SW)           



I think if you have them as part of an overall main scheme, using them as a splash of color in with lots of other roses and flowers that they are great...



I also think they are great for folks who want to think that they are growing roses if those are the only roses they have... in my mind they are no different than azaleas and that type of bush except that they bloom longer...



Plant them and enjoy them and get some more different types of roses to put around them... Hopefully you will love the blinding bright color!



diane_nj 6b/7a(6b/7a) 



If they get people who are rose-phobic to try roses, then I am for them. And if they get people who try them to continue to learn more about roses, then I am for them.



I happen to prefer Blushing Knock Out. I find Knock Out and Pink Knock Out (and the "Double" versions of each) to be too bright.



RADrazz is the registered name for the original Knock Out. If you want a true red, get Home Run.



Horti-Culture Corner

From Walt Disney



I don't like formal gardens. I like wild nature.

It's just the wilderness instinct in me, I guess.



Here Is My New favorite Plant



Meehania cordata

Meehan's Mint or Creeping Mint




Looking for a native substitute for Ajuga or Lamium? This could be it! Long, trailing stems run across the ground and root along the way. In late spring the green carpet gives way to hundreds of blue flowers opening to reveal spotted throats. Beautiful from a distance and under close scrutiny. Irresistible in a pot!



Height: 6-10 Inches, Spread: 12-15 Inches, Spacing: 12 Inches, Bloom Color: Blue Violet

           

             
If you are looking for a novel groundcover, Meehan’s mint is the perfect choice. This deciduous herbaceous perennial groundcover spreads nicely in part shade and moist well-drained to average soils with foliage reaching only 1-2” tall. Beginning in late spring, it produces attractive lavender flowers with dark spots on upright stems 3-4” tall above the foliage. Meehan’s mint spreads slowly, but is perfect for the early summer garden when other plants have stopped flowering. This gem is an excellent complement planted among moss and a good companion with a wide variety of plants including Scutellaria serrata, Thalictrum clavatum, Aquilegia canadensis, Carex plantaginea, Phlox stolonifera and Chrysogonum virginianum. - Mt. Cuba Center

Monday, January 11, 2016

January 2016


Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
January 2016
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Connecticut’s Notable Trees"
@ Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield January Meeting
Monday January 25 @ 7:00 pm 
in the Pitkin Community Center

Frank Kaputa of the Connecticut Notable Trees Project, will present to the Wethersfield Mens Garden Club on our state’s historic and largest trees, the techniques used to measure them and the criteria used to determine which trees are state and national champions. 

Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan
             Birds are dumb.  Squirrels too.  I am convinced that if it were not for those of us who maintain year-around bird feeders we would be living in a world without chirps and tweets.
            And even with that easy-eating option these dopey diners would still starve to death if we suppliers of seed did not diligently keep these alfresco eateries fully stocked ­ – day in, day out, twenty-four seven.
            For example Mars and I provide our resident tree rodents with a Squirrel Feeder Table and Chair – the dining surface of which contains an inverted metal screw onto which outrageously priced ears of dried corn (too unsuitable for cattle feed or even ethanol) are screwed.
            “Could there be a cuter way of feeding squirrels? Great fun watching them gnaw away at an ear of dried corn. Keep your zoom camera handy for some great photos!”
            Except at least half of the kernels never even make it to the beginning of the squirrel’s perpetually churning digestive system.  Instead these juicy yellow grain bits are found, day after day, scattered across the green metal tree-rat chair and strewn all around the ground at the base of the oak tree, which provides a home for the small, one-patron at a time, diner.
            And do the other squirrels that are sitting on the ground and looking up enviously at their chow-downing drey-mate deign to partake in this indiscriminately distributed bounty?  NOOOO!
            And when the chair of honor is unoccupied do they check to see what pre-plucked nuts of corn might be available for the taking before beginning the arduous chore of stripping them off of the ear?   NOOO!
            Does anyone except perhaps the once-or-twice a year passing duck, or the strutting murders of crows that take over our yards during their winter migrations even notice this free supply of high fructose food?   NOOOO! And NOOOO!  (Well occasionally the big black birds actually do indulge themselves.)
            And it is the same at our sunflower seed feeders where the average sparrow spews way more than he chews.  But here at least low-lying doves creep by at the end of the day to suck up some of the residue.
            Then each night, no matter what, like a loyal domestic servant, this weary seed supplier dons his winter jacket, scarf, gloves, and hat and trudges through windblown sleet, snow, and bitter cold to ensure that the shelves in all of our cafeterias are fully stocked and ready to go when the first ray of sunshine illuminates that initial customer of the day.
            Birds are dumb.   Squirrels too. Or are they?

DIY: Make Your Own Wildflower Seed Bombs
by Kendra Wilson – gardenista.com
            Guerrilla gardening may use the language of civilian warfare, but floral beauty is the uniting cause. Gardening without permission is another way of describing these activities: not strictly legal but filed away by the authorities under the category of "What's not to like." Alex Mitchell in her book The Rurbanite shows us how to make seed bombs, using guerrilla tactics to spread cheer.
            A "rurbanite" is someone who has "a passion for the countryside but no intention of leaving the city," says Alex Mitchell, adding: "A growing band of rurbanites is getting in touch with the green side of the city." Enter guerrilla gardening.
            "Seed bombs are best, and the most fun, when thrown into neglected roundabouts, central reservations, flowerbeds and planters," says Mitchell.
            Many guerrilla gardeners arm themselves with trowels and work nocturnally. But with seed bombs it is possible to make a difference without that considerable commitment; lob a bomb from a bicycle, a car window or when passing on foot.
            Seed bombing is best done in spring and autumn, says Alex Mitchell. Or, time your attack to coincide with heavy rainfall.
            Before seed bombing, assess a site for sunniness and choose your seeds accordingly. They do not need to be sun-loving annuals: foxgloves would suit a shadier site. Cosmos (Above), a classic annual, is a perfect candidate for guerrilla gardening.
            Different types of seed may be combined to make a seed bomb, says Alex Mitchell, but check that they can all be sown at the same time of year.
            Best flowers for seed bombs: for sunny areas, annual meadow flowers including poppies, cornflower, marigold; Californian poppies; cosmos; hollyhocks; nigella; verbena bonariensis; viper's bugloss. For shady areas, use a woodland seed mix; foxgloves, tobacco plant, honesty.
            Wildflower Seed Mix collections for various growing zones including Texas, California, Midwest, and Southeast  are $8 apiece from Urban Farmer Seeds & Plants. In the UK Pictorial Meadows offers a wide choice of meadow seed for any situation.
            The instructions are simple enough, a bit like making chocolate truffles. Takes 30 minutes.
            Ingredients: Flower seed, Potter's clay powder, from any craft shop, Peat-free compost, Water, A bowl, A baking tray
            Instructions: Mix the seed, clay, and compost together in a bowl to a ratio of three handfuls of clay, five handfuls of compost and one handful of seed. Then carefully add water slowly and gradually (you don’t want it too gloopy), mixing it all together until you get a consistency that you can form into truffle-sized balls. Lay them out to bake dry on a sunny windowsill for at least three hours.
            Targets for seed bombing should not be brownfield sites, derelict and depressing as they seem. They may be privately owned and will have their own micro eco-system, best left alone. Ditto parks and other people's gardens. Instead, rescue neglected planters and flowerbeds as well as civic spaces to which the planting plan has long been lost.
            Now is the time to fight the good fight, says Alex Mitchell: "Urbanites the world over are looking at public green spaces around their homes with a new sense of responsibility and pride."

Lawn Reform: Back to the Future with Sustainable Lawns
By Thomas Christopher – gardenrant.com
            What is cutting edge in the field of sustainable lawns? Much of it is forgotten lore from the late 19th/early 20th century, I have been discovering.
            I came upon this revelation while preparing for the talk I am going to give this month at a conference organized by Larry Weaner that is to be hosted in Philadelphia by the Morris Arboretum and in New London, CT by Connecticut College.
            The basis of my talk will be my own experiences with alternatives to Kentucky bluegrass and the two or three other turf grasses that are the default choices for lawns today. My thesis is that if you broaden your sights and find a grass species that is naturally adapted to the soil and location, you shouldn’t have to cater to it with constant chemical applications and endless irrigation. Grassland, after all, is one of the toughest types of plant communities, commonly flourishing where conditions are too difficult to permit the growth of woody plants.
            This, I believed was an original thought, until I spent a couple of days reading late-19th-century gardening books at the New York Botanical Garden library. Published before the advent of the modern chemical industry, these presented a much more sensible and relaxed view of lawn care.
            For example, Lawns & Gardens by N. Jonsson-Rosé (G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 1897) included a list of two dozen wildflowers you can include with the grass when you sow a new lawn. Jonsson-Rosé might not have recognized the term “biological diversity” but his lawns were certainly no monocultures and definitely pollinator-friendly.
            And in Lawns and How to Make Them by Leonard Barron (Doubleday, Page & Co. 1914) I found recommendations for 13 different grass species, each one accompanied by a description of the type of soil and conditions that suited it best. Included in this list are several species such as sheep fescue that I have been using to create self-sufficient, low-input lawns. There is even one species in Barron’s list, sweet vernal grass (Anthoxanthum odoratum) that was mixed with other grasses simply to give the lawn a sweet odor when it was cut. That might make you almost look forward to mowing.
            My favorite tip from these books: control dandelions by inviting Italian immigrants in to harvest the greens every spring.

10 Uses for Your Dead Christmas Tree
Jennifer Stimpson – This Old House magazine
            When the holidays are over, take down the tinsel, but don't bag the tree. Its needles, boughs, and trunk can do more than hold ornaments.
            1. Mulch with needles. Pine needles dry quickly and decompose slowly, making them an excellent moisture- and mold-free mulch for ground-covering crops, such as strawberries, to rest on.
            2. Create a Bird Sanctuary Place your tree in its stand outdoors. Fill bird feeders and hang them from the boughs, or drape the tree with a swag of pinecones coated with peanut butter
            3.Insulate Perennials Cut off boughs and lay them over perennial beds to protect them from snow and reduce frost heaving.
            4. Edge Your Borders.  Cut the trunk into 2-inch discs and set them into the soil to edge flower beds or walkways.
            5. Shelter Fish If you live near a lake or have a pond, and your tree's chemical-free, toss branches into the water to provide sheltering habitat for overwintering fish. (Get permission from town officials if needed.)
            6. Set a Stage for Containers Saw the trunk into different lengths and use the pieces as flowerpot risers for a dramatic group display.
            7. Make Coasters and Trivets Cut thin slabs off the trunk, sand them smooth, and apply a thin coat of polyurethane to keep the sap off tables and glassware.
            8. Chip It. Rent a chipper (get a few neighbors together to split the cost) and feed the tree through it. Next spring, spread the wood chips under shrubs; they'll suppress weeds and, as they decompose, add nutrients to the soil.
            9. Feed a Fire Pit. It's fine to use a few of the quick-to-ignite branches to start an outdoor fire pit—but never in an indoor fireplace, where creosote build-up is a hazard.
            10. Stake Your Plants. Strip small branches and use the remaining twigs to support indoor potted plants or stake leggy seedlings.

Will our unseasonably warm winter damage our plants?
            Here in the Northeastern United States, we are experiencing an unseasonably warm winter, so 'unseasonable', that it's breaking all time records here in Massachusetts. Blame it on El Niño, global warming or just a freak of nature, the truth is, plants are blooming and many gardeners are worried about damage.
            Many of us are worried about our cherry trees which are blooming in December, or our daffodils, spirea or witch hazels which are coming into full bloom many months earlier than their normal blooming time. I too am worried, for in my garden, many shrubs are beginning to open their flowers, particularly those which normally would bloom in late March or April. But I am noticing something - all of the plants which re blooming now are not native. They are all imported species either from Asia or Europe. While our native species may be able to handle this climate shifts, most of the damage seems to affect our ornamentals, most of which come from lands where winter behaves differently than in the already variable climate of the North Eastern US.
            We know all too well about this fact. An alpine plant from the high alpine mountain tops in the alps can perish in our coastal Boston gardens, since they are used to a steady, certain period of thawing at snowmelt, never to freeze again until autumn, whilst in the New England garden, said alpine may thaw and refreeze multiple times during the average winter or spring.
            If you garden in the North East, you know about this sudden death syndrome.  It is not uncommon at all for perennials to emerge at snowmelt, grow a bit with new tender during a mild April or May, only to refreeze, thus tearing their roots, and causing irreparable cellular damage resulting in certain death.
            We loose many plants to this pattern of freeze, thaw, refreeze here in the Northern Atlantic states. The Sadly 'perfect spring' rarely occurs. Ironically, last year, we did have the 'perfect spring'. Long, slow and cool, with no killing refreeze. I guess we are paying for this anomaly now with the warmest December in recorded history.
            Warmer than average winters are not that unusual here in New England, but only rarely have they been truly damaging. Most severe cases are measured through how they affect agricultural crops, most recently, in 2012 when 90 percent of the apple crop was damaged in the northeaster US due to a single freeze in April, and in 1934 more than 3/4's of the apple trees in the Northeast were killed by a warmer than normal winter, which then followed with a cold snap.  I have a photo of our house featured in our local paper in 1934 with the apple trees in bloom during January. This record breaking winter of 1934 was reportedly caused by many of the same factors that caused the infamous dust bowl in the Western US a few years earlier. My father remembers when it 'snowed red' that winter, with snow stained by airborne dust. Many of the Baldwin apple trees were lost in New England during that winter.
            Native plants usually survive such periods of warm weather, but this winter is not over yet, and I do wonder how the mild temperatures this year will change our native plants. I mean, 20, 30 or even 100 years of record keeping isn't long when it comes to climate change. But we are breaking 300 year records, still small perhaps, but I do begin to worry when I see things like multiple records being broken in just ten years. In 1995 we experienced a late frost which killed many of our native oaks and ash trees - I remember this damage, since Christopher Lloyd was visiting here, speaking at Tower Hill Botanic Garden during that freeze in May. Cold snaps and odd late freezes are one thing, but warm winters that cause entire populations of native trees to bloom off season is another. Let's hope this only affects our imported species.
            So whether this year's mild weather is the result of long-tern climate changes or not, we all know that there are some troubling signs in our own gardens. Personally, I am thrilled that my heating bill for the greenhouse has been practically nil so far, but those gains may be offset by plant loss around my garden. Facebook abounds with images of freaky, blooming things out-of-season.
            To those who keep records about such things, it's all more than alarming. Climatologists know the numbers.  If we kept records in our own gardens, we might, and should be alarmed as well. Even short term. Lilacs are blooming on average, four days earlier than they did in the 1960's, according to David Wolfe, a Cornell Department of Horticulture professor who pointed out in a 2007 article that cultivated crops such as grapes and apples are blooming on average, six to eight days earlier now than just thirty years ago. Mr. Wolff focuses on how climate change is affecting agriculture, where many crops are migrating northward in an effort to improve growing conditions. It doesn't matter if you believe in climate change or not, it's happening either way.
            There are some helpful resources for you to not only follow, but to participate with. Project Budburst allows you to enter information about what is happening in your own backyard and garden plus offers lots of other features. It's sponsored by he National Science Foundation. Some of the reports on Project Budburst reinforces my thoughts about how our native plants are able to handle such mild winters as we are experiencing this year.
            This year has been more challenging for forecasters though, even though we were being told that this epic El Niño was over due. Besides, the West needed rain, the mountains are grateful for the snow, as are the skiers in Colorado and Utah. Here in the Northeast, forecasting how this winter may layout has been more challenging, even though scientists have learned so much recently. There are other factors beyond El Niño which complicate things.A cold, deeply frozen winter in Siberia can affect the Jet Stream in Canada and Northern North America. Arctic Oscillation can mean a colder and snowier winter in the North East, but this year is more complicated, since we are experiencing both a snowy, cold arctic Siberian winter and a strong El Niño. How it will play out remains to be seen.
            In my garden, I am noticing that the plants which are emerging early are mostly Asian species. Native plants seem to be better with dealing with warm autumns and unseasonable weather like this. I feel that this autumn started off with a bad sign - and earlier and harder frost than what was considered normal occurred in early October. Frost, temperatures just below freezing usually triggers a chemical reaction in the petioles of leaves on trees, blocking chlorophyll from being produced, leaving behind other chemical pigments which provide our bright, colorful autumn foliage of reds, orange and yellow here in New England.
            Our earlier than normal deep freeze, was so cold (below 24 deg. F) froze the leaves and killed them in their green state, before they had a change to slowly progress to a colorful state. Most remained on the trees until they faded into a pale olive brown, and then finally fell. Asian trees, such as Japanese Maples, Himalayan Birches and Stewartia kept their brown, dried foliage until late November, the petioles unable to release their leaves without the proper maturity. Many berried shrubs such as the bright violet berries on callicarpa were so damaged that they rotted on the branches, while the foliage, which typically would turn yellow and drop after a light frost, simply remain on the branches in their damaged, brown state. Many are still holding onto their leaves.
            After that initial hard freeze in early October, the temperatures in Massachusetts have remain mild since early October, only now, this week around the New Year, dropping again to 18-20 degrees. December 2015 was the hottest in recorded history, with every day averaging about average. The plants, in particular, the Asian species are not handling the mild weather well. Most are beginning to sprout, with buds which should be dormant, emerging on Stewartia, Deutzia, Spirea and Hamamelis.
            Not all is doom and gloom however, since most native species seem to have remained dormant in our gardens, but the jury is still our with our imported plants species. Sadly, most of our garden plants today are not native, (perhaps the best reason of all for using more native plants in our landscape?) Non natives, be they lilacs, Spirea, apples, Japanese Maples, hydrangeas even the newly available lace-leaved elderberries with purple or golden foliage, can be damaged or killed.
            Elderberries are particularly susceptible to warmer than average winters since they form their dormant buds earlier in the late summer, and they are not used to our uncertain winter temperatures, which may spend a few weeks near 70 degrees F, then drop to a frigid, killing 10 degrees overnight, only to rise again to a balmy 65 degrees.
            Most at risk are those perennials which typically emerge at snow melt. We have enough problems with them in the spring, when an early emergence followed by a hard freeze kills many of our beloved garden perennials, but even in January, an early emerging Helleborus nigra can face death with a hard, colder than average winter, without snow cover. I expect to looks many plants this year, in particular some Spirea and Elderberries which have been motivated to emerge 5 months early.
            Native plants respond to day length more than they do temperature, so most of our wild plants will be safe, but we should keep our fingers crossed that Asian agricultural crops such as apples, pears and cherries do not bloom before truly cold weather arrives, or we risk loosing much more than some garden flowers.

The Non-Poisonous Poinsettia
Ann Streb, Penn State Master Gardener - extension.psu.edu
            Despite sound evidence to the contrary, poinsettia phobia continues. No other consumer plant has been as widely tested as the poinsettia.
            Researchers at Ohio State University have measured the effects of ingesting unusually high doses of all parts of the plant (including leaves, stems and sap) and found the plant to be non-toxic. This is not to say that it should be consumed. As with any non-food item, ingesting the plant could cause stomach discomfort but nothing more.
            The poinsettia’s species name, pulcherrima, means “most beautiful,”  which describes its large red bracts and rich green foliage. This pairing of red and green may be what has made the poinsettia the second most popular holiday plant, second only to the Christmas tree. As a member of the euphorbia family, the poinsettia is noted for the white milky sap, high in latex, that circulates throughout the plant. The poinsettia is native to Central America and Mexico and was brought to America by Mexico’s first ambassador, Dr. Joel R. Poinsett in 1825, after whom it was named. Some believe it may be the similarity between his name and the word poison that fostered the myth of toxicity.
            A Christmas legend from Mexico is also associated with the poinsettia. A poor girl was on her way to the church on Christmas eve but having no gift to offer the Christ child, she picked weeds along the way as a humble offering. As she approached the altar, the weeds miraculously blossomed into brilliant red flowers called Flores De Noche Buena, the Flowers of the Holy Night, now called poinsettias. It is a lesson in what makes a gift truly beautiful.
           
To Deadhead or Not? Your Final Answer is...
            Deadheading is a gardening term that defines the process of removing faded or dead flowers from plants. Deadheading is a process of pruning by which old growth and seed heads are removed from the plant to promote new growth and re-flowering.
            Deadheading is very simple. As blooms fade, pinch or cut off the flower stems below the spent flowers and just above the first set of full, healthy leaves. Always check plants carefully to be sure that no flower buds are hiding amid the faded blooms before you shear off the top of the plant.
            The best time to deadhead a flower is when its appearance begins to decline. The frequency of deadheading a particular plant depends on the life span of its blooms. This can range from a day to several weeks, depending on the species. Weather also greatly affects a flower’s longevity as torrential rains and unseasonably hot weather can take their toll on blooms.
            Most flowers lose their attraction as they fade. Snapping or cutting dead flower heads can enhance the flowering performance of many plants. Deadheading is an important task to keep up with in the garden throughout the growing season because it results in healthier plants and continual blooms. When dead blooms are left clinging to flowering plants, they sap the nutrition and strength from the core of the plants and rob them of the energy to produce new and colorful blooms. The deadheading process redirects plants energy from seed production to root and vegetative growth.
            Get in the habit of evaluating your garden frequently to determine if there are any deadheading needs. Spending a short time in the garden each day will make the deadheading task much easier. Deadheading is a maintenance practice that can be done throughout the growing season. Deadheading allows you to stay in contact with your garden beds. Many gardeners find deadheading enjoyable and relaxing. It can also be meditative and therapeutic.
            After a plant is finished flowering, it begins to form seeds. The flowering process is suspended, and the plant begins to use all its energy to form seeds. Deadheading plants as soon as the blooms begin to fade will promote a second bloom.
            Making a decision about deadheading can be difficult because it is advantageous for some plants and detrimental for others. Gardeners should evaluate the needs of their plants in order to make a proper determination.
            There are some perennials that are great self-seeders. For example, columbine loves to spread and roam its seedlings to places away from the parent plant. An advantage to this is that baby plants can help fill in areas of your garden or allow the gardener to share plants with other gardeners. Some perennials that should not be deadheaded so that they reseed for the following year are Alcea (Hollyhock), Digitalis (Foxglove), Lobelia (Cardinal Flower), and Myosotis (Forget-me-not.).
            However, some perennials benefit from being deadheaded. These include Achillea (Yarrow), Astilbe (False Spirea), Campanula (Bellflower), Centranthus (Jupiter’s Beard), Coreopsis (Tickseed), Delphinium (Larkspur), Gaillardia (Blanket Flower), Geranium (Cranesbill), Monarda (Bee Balm), Oenothera (Evening Primrose), and Phlox paniculata (Garden Phlox). Taller varieties of Sedum such as Autumn Joy should be cut back to prevent spindly branches and to promote compact growth.
            In many gardens, no deadheading guidelines apply in the autumn. It is very important to keep seed pods on the plants for wildlife to enjoy during the winter months. Also, some plants have very decorative seed pods and present a beautiful display in the garden during the winter. Birds enjoy perching on Echinacaea (coneflowers) and snacking on the seed heads. Plants like Rudbeckia are great for attracting gold finches with their seeds. This is crucial food for them in the winter.
            Nothing is more rewarding to a gardener than watching the garden come to life with beautiful blooms and practicing the task of deadheading throughout the season, when it is deemed appropriate. Nature will bless you with a second wave of blooms to enjoy, even more for some plants, and will reward you with the reseeding of some plants to keep the garden thriving from year to year.