Wednesday, November 2, 2016

November 2016


Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
November/December 2016
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
HOLIDAY PARTY TIME! (In lieu of Nov/Dec Meetings)

The annual club Holiday Party will be held on Monday December 5, 5:30 – 8:30 p.m. @ the Solomon Welles House, in Wethersfield.

Catered Food, Drink, Fellowship, and Entertainment
by the Wethersfield High School Choraleers.

Spouses/guests are cordially invited.
$15.00 per person ($30.00 per couple)
Bring a potential member @ the above prices. 
If they join the club, then their first year $15 dues are free.
Dues will be collected from our non-paying, scofflaw members at the party.

RSVP (including potential member-guests) to President Tony Sanders at 860.529.3257 by Friday November 18.

WESTON ROSE GARDEN “WINTER OVER”
Saturday November 12 @ 8:00 a.m.

Branches will be trimmed and compost placed around the bushes. 

MEETING ATTENDANCE – OR LACK THEREOF
Attendance at our monthly meetings has been pretty low this year.  And when we don’t have any outside guests this makes for a mighty empty room – and an uncomfortable situation for our speakers and those who do show up – plus an expense to the club.  If you have ideas for speakers that would be of interest to you and others please let Tony / Howard know.   Either way, please show up for the meetings – maybe even with a guest. 

Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan
A Tale of Two Nurseries
             
In addition to gardening, one of my other avocations (this one acquired after my retirement) is what is sometimes called public history.  As members of Wethersfield Historical Society, Mars and I have come to believe that the story of, e.g., our neighborhood’s past is, in its own way, as much a part of the story of our town as the 1781 meeting between General George Washington and General Comte de Rochambeau, or the great flood of 1936.  It is in that spirit that I would like to share the story of two local area nurseries – Pierson’s Floral and Brimfield Gardens Nurseries.
             
The Hartford Courant described Pierson’s Floral Nurseries in Cromwell, CT as  “’A crystal village’ and ‘a sea of glass’ [made up of] the acres upon acres of greenhouses….a floricultural wonder of the world over which founder Anders Nels Pierson, the ‘Rose King,’ reigned for most of the first half of the more than a century it was in business.”
             
Anders (later Andrew) Pierson was born in Sweden in 1850.  After serving an apprenticeship to a florist there he immigrated to the United States in 1869, and settled in Cromwell sometime in the early 1870s.  There he began his own business growing flowers and vegetables employing Swedish immigrants that Pierson encouraged to come to Connecticut.  After a brief setback caused by the collapse of some greenhouses under four feet of snow during the Blizzard of 1888, Pierson and others developed several new varieties of roses that were hardy enough to use as cut flowers – earning him numerous floriculture awards.
             
While the company continued to grow other flowers, its principal product now became roses – shipping over $8 million worth of them to wholesale and retail markets from Boston, to Washington, D.C. to western New York State.  As a result Cromwell acquired the nickname “Rosetown”.
             
The company struggled in the economic conditions imposed by WWI, but recovered during the influenza epidemic of 1919, which created a huge demand for flowers for funerals.  When Pierson died in 1925 his business was the largest grower of flowers in the United States, and the second largest in the world with over 500 hundred employees.  Anders’ final words are said to have been, “I want roses in my room.”
            
 “By the early 1970s, the company had 87 greenhouses and the approximately 300 employees included many immigrants from Sicily who had found work growing flowers just as their Swedish predecessors had. In 1989, A.N. Pierson Inc., sold more than 9 million roses, a company record.”  (Hartford Courant)
             
Higher energy prices and competition from roses imported from Columbia however forced the company to close on January 14, 1991.
             
“One of the most significant contributions Pierson’s enterprise made to Cromwell was to the local architecture. The Main Street Historic District in Cromwell contains several houses Pierson built for use in his floral operations….In 1893, Pierson took over several tenant houses built by John Stevens in 1875 for his J. & E. Stevens Company. These houses on Prospect Place served Pierson’s workers for several decades. Between 1922 and 1925, a series of Colonial Revival-style cottages became known as the ‘Holy City.’ This name alludes to Pierson’s Russellite faith, which believed the end of the world was near and required houses for the faithful to use for their return to heaven.” (connecticuthistory.org)
             
While not as much of a player on the national scene, Brimfield Gardens Nursery nonetheless left a lasting impression on the neighborhood that has been Mars and my home base for almost forty years.  Established in 1927 the business occupied several lots around 245 Brimfield Road in what was then a planned development known as “Brimfield Gardens”.  The house at 245 was built in 1924 and sold in 1929 to the Marshall family who managed the operation.  Wesley Marshall currently runs the business in its Rocky Hill location to which it relocated in the 1960s.
             
While on Brimfield Road the nursery was a mail order purveyor of exotic plants, and a residential landscaper that specialized in rare trees and Japanese Gardens.  Much of their design and planting work was in New York and Long Island, however they did leave their mark on their original location in the form of three trees: a Cedar of Lebanon, said to be the lumber with which Noah’s Ark was built; and two Chinese Gingkoes, traditional symbols of longevity ­ – appropriate emblems for a neighborhood that that came into being during Wethersfield’s greatest period of growth, and which continues to thrive today. 
             
Town legend has it that tour buses would come to see the Gingkoes in their autumn yellow colors and (if they were lucky) watch them drop their leaves in one dramatic cascade during the first hard frost.  I have been fortunate to witness this “full Monty” leaf-slide on two different occasions – the first unforgettably while starting out on an early morning run when the crackling cacophony startled me out of my still, somewhat sleepy condition.
             
Sadly one of the Chinese trees was cut down in 2013.

Why a rose by any other name does NOT smell as sweet:
Scientists discover the flowers are losing their scent
because consumers want better looking blooms
By Colin Fernandez for the Daily Mail (dailymail.co.uk)

They say a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.
             
But according to researchers, the flowers have been gradually losing their evocative scent – because gardeners have bred them for their appearance rather than their smell.
             
Now, scientists have pinpointed exactly how the flower produces their sweet aroma by identifying the gene that ‘switches on’ the scent.
             
Scientists have discovered that roses that have been bred for their looks have lost out on their scent
             
And they hope the development may allow gardeners to cultivate blooms that look good and smell good – by making sure the gene is present in any new varieties of rose.
             
The team made their discovery by comparing two roses – Papa Meilland, which has a strong fragrance, and Rouge Meilland, which has very little scent. They identified a gene that ‘switches on’ a crucial enzyme called RhNUDX1. The chemical acts in the cells of the flower’s petals to generate a chemical called monoterpene geraniol, one of the sweetest-smelling parts of rose oil.
             
Wild roses could not survive without this scent, as it attracts bees to pollinate its flower. But over the years, roses, particularly those for the cut flower market, have mostly been bred for their appearance – and many have lost their scent.
             
Because the flowers often have to travel hundreds of miles to reach the shops, their toughness has also been valued more than their fragrance. As a result, the scent of roses has suffered, and become something of an afterthought. Researcher Philippe Hugueny, whose work was published in the journal Science, explained: ‘In cultivated roses, the scent has no reproductive function, it’s only for our pleasure. So if roses lose their scent it’s too bad. But if a wild rose lost its smell it would die out.’ He added: ‘We discovered roses use a special pathway to make monoterpenes which has not been shown in other plants.’
             
Mr Hugueny, of the French National Institute for Agricultural Research, said the find may help develop roses that look and smell good. While there is currently no demand for genetically modified roses in Europe, Mr Hugueny said that in Japan, where breeders have experimented with creating modifications including blue roses, the research might be considered useful.

The 7 Best Winter Fruits
Here's what to look for 
when your local orchards shut down for the season.
By Amy Ahlberg @ rodalesorganiclife.com
   
Apples or Apples?  It's getting to be that time of year when your options for local, seasonal fruits are either apples or...apples. Citrus growers haven't gotten a really tasty crop yet, and 90 percent of what's in your grocery store has been shipped in from far, far away, devoid of any taste or nutrition. But, unless you're branching out to specialty grocery stores, you could be missing out on some of the most nutritious, unique fruits--grown in the U.S.--that are available this time of year. Certain varieties of tropical and citrus fruits, which are grown somewhat locally in places like Florida and Hawaii, have the highest levels of heart-healthy antioxidants of any fruit, so you can still make your heart happy without having to pollute the planet with fruit flown in from another hemisphere.
             
Kumquats: Forget pomegranates--start popping kumquats. The tiny little olive-sized citrus fruits are full of disease-fighting antioxidants, which are contained in their sweet, edible skin. A serving of five (which is about five calories) also contains one-fifth of your daily fiber needs, along with a healthy dose of potassium and vitamins A and C. The most commonly found variety is the Nagami, and California and Florida are home to most of our domestic crop, which peaks between November and March, and the fruits are super-versatile. Slice up a kumquat and toss it into a salad, or use that instead of hassling with orange zest when your recipes call for that; kumquats lend a more refined, complex flavor to your dishes. Diced kumquats and avocado make a great salsa when mixed with red onion, cilantro and lime. At the market, look for firm fruits that are bright orange in color (green ones aren't ripe), and store kumquats them at room temperature for two or three days, or for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.
             
Carambolas, or Star Fruit: Exotic fruits are generally higher in vitamin C, higher in potassium, and lower in calories than domestic fruits, and carambolas, or star fruits, are no exception. High in inflammation-lowering polyphenols, they're also great for your heart and full of fiber. Most of the star fruits you'll see in stores now come from Hawaii or South Florida. Look for firm, shiny, evenly-colored yellow fruit. Handle with care, as star fruit bruise easily, and ripen them at room temperature for a few days until light brown ribs form and a full, fruity aroma develops, then refrigerate them for up to a week. Aim for deep yellow skin with browning on the edges," says Scott Varanko, produce manager at Stew Leonard's Farm Fresh Grocer in Norwalk, CT. "This is when they are sweetest. Some people will use the (underripe) green ones, since they are tart, as a substitute for limes in drinks." The carambola's taste has been described as a cross between citrus, apple and pear, and you can just eat them as is, or slice them into fruit salads. Sliced thin and dried in an oven on low heat, they also make great edible Christmas tree ornaments
             
Quinces: They may look like their relatives, apples and pears, but quinces are much healthier and may actually help ward off the flu. With twice the vitamin C of its native relatives, quinces are also high in anti-viral phenolic compounds that have been found to combat the influenza virus. The Chinese quince variety has the highest levels of those flu-fighters, but you'll also get some benefit from California's Pineapple quinces and the East Coast's Orange and Smyrna varieties. The short quince season lasts from September until December. To find them, check out Latino, Asian and Middle Eastern markets, specialty grocers and farmer's markets. The fruits taste best when cooked, so add them to long-cooked savory stews or roasts or use them in any dish you might use cooked apples or pears.
             
Rambutans: In Hawaii, the decline of the sugarcane plantations has led to a burgeoning specialty fruit industry, and antioxidant powerhouses rambutans, lychees and longans are now grown there. The rambutan, also known as hairy lychee or hula berry, is a tropical treat when summer's lychees aren't in season; their season runs from September through March. They might even be better for you than green tea. Rambutans have higher levels of the antioxidants flavanoids and anthocyanins, both of which are believed to reduce risk of chronic diseases and cardiovascular problems. They also contain lots of iron and calcium. Look for rambutans in Asian and other specialty markets, and handle them with care -- they're fragile, and keep only a day or two at room temperature. If you're not eating them right away, place in a perforated plastic bag and refrigerate. To enjoy them, simply peel and pop into your mouth, or add them to a fruit platter; you can cut the top half of the skin off to reveal the fruit, leaving the bottom half of the skin as a decorative holder.
            
 Longans: Another relative of the lychee, longans are native to China but now are grown in Hawaii and in Puerto Rico. Stock up on them this time of year because they've traditionally been used to settle upset stomachs and fever reducers, making them great natural flu remedies, and like their relatives, longans are high in disease-fighting antioxidants. Also known as "dragon's eye," it's easy to see why--the fruits have a black seed centered in translucent white flesh--and they taste similar to a chewy grape. You can find Hawaii-grown longans in Asian markets nearly year-round. Store them in the refrigerator in a perforated plastic bag for a week or two. You can simply rinse, peel and seed longans to eat as snacks, or add them to fruit salads and desserts. But don't toss the seeds! They have a high saponin content and thus can be used as soap or even shampoo.
             
Persimmons: A study in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry found that a persimmon a day could be better for your heart than an apple, because they contain significantly higher concentrations of the dietary fiber, minerals and phenolic compounds that prevent atherosclerosis, a leading cause of heart disease, heart attacks and stroke. An added bonus: the antioxidants in persimmons can help control diabetes and the cell damage it causes. Their flavor and texture has been compared to plums or apricots, with spicy undertones, and you can use just the pulp or the entire fruit in holiday puddings, pureed in ice creams, breads and cakes. But try them in savory dishes, too, like salsas, stir-fries and salads, such as this Mixed Green Salad with Fall Fruit and Beet Dressing.
             
Asian Pears: Though their softer Bosch relatives are long gone by now, hard-when-ripe Asian pears are perfect for cold storage and easy to find in farmer's markets and grocery stores this time of year. Why that's a good thing? Asian pears have significantly more fiber than other pear varieties, so chomping down on one a day is good for your heart and wards off diabetes. Select the most fragrant, unblemished Asian pears when shopping; a sweet scent is the best indication that the pears are ripe. They can be kept for up to a week at room temperature or up to three whole months in the fridge. Thanks to their sweet pear flavor and crunchy texture, Asian pears are perfect additions to salads, and are delicious grated into slaws. They work well in place of apples in all kinds of recipes, from holiday stuffings to baked dishes. Try sautéing them to serve alongside meat entrées, or for a festive, easy holiday party appetizer, serve Blue Cheese-Walnut Spread on Asian Pear Slices.

A Guide to Winter Foraging in New England
By Jamie Ducharme @ http://www.bostonmagazine.com

As winter descends upon New England, most people see only a barren landscape. Russ Cohen is not among them.
             
Cohen is a forager, eating and enjoying foods few others know are edible. “I look at it as a form of communion,” he says. “Instead of wine and wafers, it’s nibbling on wild nuts and berries. If you worship nature, like I do, then taking it in in that way is a way to really connect with it.”
             
While foraging in New England is far more fruitful during the warm months—Cohen leads foraging walks and lessons from May through October—we asked him which edible species you can enjoy as the temperatures drop.
             
Peppergrass: Though it’s nearing the end of its growing season, Cohen says pepper grass’ edible seed pods taste like watercress and make a great addition to salads and cream cheese.
             
Black birch: “Black birch twigs have the oil of wintergreen and smell like wintergreen gum or Lifesavers,” Cohen says. “You can gather those twigs year-round and make a tea from them, which has that nice strong wintergreen flavor.” He says black birches resemble black cherry trees, but the latter has bark that looks like “charcoal-colored potato chips.”
             
Roots: Before the ground freezes, Cohen says, there are a number of edible roots to be found, including wild carrot roots, wild parsnip roots, hog peanut roots, Burdock roots, and Jerusalem artichokes. But once full-on winter cold hits, they’re largely inaccessible.
            
 Sassafras: Cohen says sassafras pulls double duty: Its root bark can be brewed and made into a root beer-flavored tea, while its twigs have a pleasant lemon smell. “Look for diminutive trees in the woods, often growing quite close together,” he suggests. “The twigs will have a green color, so you scratch the twig and sniff it, and if you get that fruity, lemony smell you know that’s sassafras.”
             
Spice bush: You can make tea from spice bush’s twigs—which is exactly what the colonists did when they were boycotting British tea during the Revolutionary War, Cohen says. Tell-tale signs of the bush: spherical buds on the twigs, “shrubby” appearance, and standing near flowing water.
             
The take away? While winter foraging is more of a hobby than it is a way to find sustenance, Cohen says it’s a great way to get in tune with nature. “As a society, we’ve gotten a little complacent,” he says. “We’re used to being able to go to the store and buy anything we want, any day of the year we want, and that’s not how nature works.”

Cornell on Lawn Care: Do Less!
           
Lawns have been attacked for some years now, with claims that they require obscene amounts of water, fertilizers, pesticides, and gas-guzzling mowing, so of course the only responsible thing to do is to get rid of it all, right? But lawns are so useful they’ll always be with us, and are the criticisms even warranted? Or do Americans just need to change their lawn-care practices and expectations of golf-course perfection?
             
Now Cornell, long-time leader in lawn research, is out with a terrific new Turfgrass website, plus the easy-to-follow “Lawn Care: The Easiest Steps to an Attractive Environmental Asset“(also available in free ebook). It’s the work of Extension Associate Lori Brewer, who told me that with her environmental background, she wanted to “change the world” by promoting better lawn-care practices and attitudes.
             
Responsible lawn care is so very important, yet the topic of lawns was very polarizing within the Master Gardener groups she works with in New York. Many were not equipped to answer questions from the public, and lawns are the most asked-about subject.
             
So she decided to boil down the information into its simplest, essential form – “Just do these most important things” – and the message had to be conveyed with very limited sources. Thus, online and in a multi-media e-book.
             
With major headings like “Do Less,” you know it’s not going to be your grandfather’s lawn-care advice, but it’s also not going to be the total condemnation seen from some quarters. It takes the more enlightened position that “A well-managed lawn is an environmental asset” because it aids in erosion control, improves water quality, and filters air pollutants. Lawn alternatives are recommended for spots where lawn doesn’t grow well.
             
Lori worked with Cornell’s famous lawn expert Dr. Frank Rossi and others, boiling their wisdom down to its essential bits, a task that Rossi knew wouldn’t be easy because “It requires more than 140 characters.”
             
So if you have a cool-season lawn (these species), here’s how Cornell (and increasingly, other Extension universities) recommends that you care for it. Let’s bust some myths, shall we?
             
WATER LESS. Conventional wisdom is correct that grasses need about 1 inch of water per week, but only during periods of active growth. That means spring and fall, when there’s usually ample rainfall, anyway.
             
Then during the heat of the summer, cool-season grasses slow their growth and may even turn brown but are probably not dead. Studies show that as little as 1/4 inch of water over a three-week period can be enough to keep the sod alive. (Use a rain gauge to measure your rainfall.)
             
FEED LESS. “Most home lawns with modest expectations do just fine with a single late-fall fertilizations mid-September to mid-October.” So for what Cornell calls “highest quality” turfgrass, several feedings are needed per year but for most homeowners, one application is plenty. Americans, does your lawn really need to look like a golf course? Time to adjust your expectations!
             
(Feed again in the spring only if the lawn is thin or winter-damaged, but wait until the soil has warmed up to 55 F.)
             
ARE ORGANIC FERTILIZERS BETTER? Well, the evidence sure doesn’t support any claim that they’re better for turf. They do introduce organic matter into the soil, which is a good thing, but synthetic fertilizers offer some advantages over organics: you know exactly what’s in them, including zero phosphorus to protect waterways; they’re cheaper and easier to apply (because of the smaller quantity of product needed); and they can be applied at lower soil temperatures.
             
More important than the source of the fertilizer is whether it’s released slowly enough to protect the waterways from fertilizer pollution. So just choose a fertilizer that’s at least 30 percent slow-release (water-insoluble Nitrogen) for normal soils or 60 percent for sandy ones.
             
WEEDKILLERS PROBABLY NOT NEEDED. The good news, according to Rossi, is that the majority of public with lawns use NO herbicides at all. But if hand-weeding isn’t doing the job he recommends selecting an herbicide that poses the least risk, as spelled out by the EPA in their list of over 100 herbicides.
             
The best defense against weeds, of course, is following sound lawn-care advice to produce a nice thick lawn and patching the bare spots, too. (I was surprised that Cornell’s lawn-patching video doesn’t mention covering the seed with straw, but Lori says it’s really not needed.)
             
Cornell also invites us to change our expectations for uniformity and just live with some weeds. They even suggest it’s time to rediscover the virtues of white clover – that instead of a weed, it converts Nitrogen in the air to a form the plants can use. So having clover means less need for supplemental fertilizer.
             
MOW RIGHT. Cornell makes a big deal out of mowing correctly because it’s essential to preventing disease. They even go so far as to suggest that if you think your lawn needs a whole renovation, try mowing correctly for a year first because that may correct the problem.
             
So it’s about sharp blades, mowing high, and rather than the usual admonition to never remove more than a third of the blades at one time they recommend following the much easier “clump rule.” “Mow often enough to avoid piles of grass clippings. This might be every 5 days in the spring or not at all during summer drought and every 7-14 days the rest of the season.” See, that advice I could follow.
             
WHAT NEXT? Rossi believes that if lawn-care professionals were trained in these practices it have a enormous impact. What’s needed is a tool for evaluating and certifying them, which would incentive them to adhere to best practices. And with funding, he and others at Cornell could produce such a tool in about 18 months. (Hint!)

Horti-Culture Corner
No! by Thomas Hood

"No warmth, no cheerfulness, no healthful ease,
No comfortable feel in any member -
No shade, no shine, no butterflies, no bees,
No fruits, no flowers, no leaves, no birds -
November!"

Friday, September 30, 2016

October 2016


Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
October 2016
           

Next Meeting: Monday October 24  @ 7:00 pm in the Pitkin Community Center, 30 Greenfield Street, Wethersfield.  Carol Quish of the UConn Home & Garden Education Center will speak about “Insect Pests in the Garden.”  The talk is free and open to the public.

Mark your calendars – Holiday Party Monday December 5.
           
I am away on vacation for most of October so the Planters Punchlines newsletter is early this month.

Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan
           
For most of the 39 years that Mars and I have gardened at our current location we have tried to attract butterflies and hummingbirds – with limited success.
             
It started in earnest with a butterfly house that our son Bram gave me.  Both he, who was a teenage non-gardener and had no reason to know better, and I thought that the homestead itself was the draw.  And that soon after it was put into place atop the pole with which it came, kaleidoscopes (aka swarms or rabbles) of large fragile-winged, colorful insects would literally flock into our yard to reside in our brand-spanking-new Lepidoptera dorm. 
             
We forgot the basic law of real estate, “Location! Location! Location!”
             
Not the street address – rather the physical location within which the landing pad was placed.  “Surroundings! Surroundings! Surroundings!”  We needed a butterfly garden to surround our butterfly house.
             
The wooden dwelling with vertical slots is intended as a resting place for insects, which happen to be in the area for another reason –an overnight pad within which to crash after an all-day nectar binge garden party. 
             
Not a problem.  There was no shortage of lists of what to grow in your butterfly garden.  We initially went, as I recall, with the usual suspects: butterfly bush and bee balm added to the daisies, cardinal plants, and false dragonheads that already occupied the area. We also acquired some kind of “prairie flower”.  I remember that the nurseryman imitated its movement in a breeze by flailing his arms back and forth and twisting his body like the inflatable “air dancers” that advertise the presence of car dealers and other roadside retail businesses.
             
We planted the garden in early spring.  By autumn the prairie flowers had been swallowed up by their fellow plants and never were seen again.  A few butterflies came by for a look and a quick sip – roughly the same number that came before we put in our alfresco nectar saloon.  None stayed overnight as far as we could tell.  But then again it would have been dark and the insects would have hidden themselves within their narrow bed apertures – so who knows?
             
To help with the attempt, my in-laws gave us a “Butterfly Growing Kit” with a cup of 5 caterpillars, caterpillar chow, and a cardboard container within which to grow them.  When the time came, on a warm summer morning, we released the quintet of Monarchs into our butterfly garden.  They surveyed the offerings and left.
             
Sometime during the first couple of years the butterfly bush was pushed out by its neighbors – and over time we have added and subtracted various other butterfly attractors – such as loosestrife, hollyhock, Queen Anne’s Lace, sunflower – with no appreciable increase or decline in the count of Lepidoptera.
             
I know I shouldn’t take it personally.  Most butterflies have only a few weeks of life as an adult, winged creature so they are really pretty focused on eating and mating during the short time that they have.  Even the well-traveled Monarch has a brief and very busy life.  Those born in the summer breeding season live only 2-6 weeks. But the ones that migrate to Mexico are born in late summer, stay alive all winter, and migrate north the following spring – so whatever extra time they have is spent planning their vacation (getting passports, shots, directions, etc.)  None of them have the time to be your friend.
             
But I have not given up just yet.  On the web I came across suggestions and recipes for “butterfly bait” to draw the little flitters into our yard.
             
“Many butterflies prefer rotting fruit, tree sap, dung, carrion, urine, and other non-nectar sources of nutrients. [And who wouldn’t?] You can allow fruit from your fruit trees to decay on the ground, leave your pet’s droppings where they lie, or place a bit of raw meat or fish in a discreet part of your garden.”
            
 Or perhaps just blend them all together and spray a thick coat of the resulting liquor all over the body of a purple-and-red thrashing air dancer man that is tethered to the spot where the butterfly house once stood.
             
And as a side benefit we might get a good price for our two decade-old cars.


Keeping Heirloom Apples Alive Is 'Like A Chain Letter' Over Many Centuries
By Melissa Block @ npr.org

It's apple season, and if you go to the supermarket you'll find the usual suspects: Red and Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, MacIntosh. But these big, shiny, perfect apples often look better than they taste. Thankfully, there's a whole world of heirloom apples out there — fruit that may look funky, but tastes fantastic, with flavors unlike any you've tried before.
             
Ezekiel Goodband, orchard manager of Scott Farm in Dummerston, Vt., has devoted his life to these heirloom apples. He's spent decades carefully grafting and tending historic varieties — some of which date back hundreds of years. Sprightly, with twinkly eyes and a long gray-brown beard tucked into a well-worn sweater, Goodband shows off his acres, which boast 100 different apple varieties.
             
Some apples are round and tiny; others are lobed or pear-shaped. They range from acid green to mousy freckled brown to rosy pink. And they have exotic-sounding names like Winter Banana, Red Astrakhan, Chenango Strawberry and Pitmaston Pineapple.
             
One tree bears a mutant-like fruit that only a mother could love: Goodband describes this Knobbed Russet as "a tree of shrunken heads." The fruit is gnarled, warty, brown and shriveled, but — Goodband promises — it tastes great.
             
Goodband compares these Knobbed Russets to shrunken heads. Others say potatoes or toads. They're all gnarled and warty and brown, but don't be intimidated: They taste great when ripe. They originated in Sussex, England, in 1819.
             
Goodband is helping to preserve historic varieties like the Knobbed Russet that have been handed down over the centuries. Like farmers for generations before him, he has painstakingly collected cuttings and grafted them to root stock. That's the only way to do it, to keep the exact DNA of these apples alive.
             
"It's sort of like a chain letter, and I like that connection," he says.
             
Like many of us, Goodband grew up on Red Delicious apples. His father grew them, and they'd eat them year-round. But he won't touch them now. Those leathery, indestructible behemoths were cultivated to be ever redder and bigger, but at the expense of flavor.
             
These days, lots of people are ecstatic about the Honeycrisp, a newish apple, created at the University of Minnesota in 1991. It explodes with juices and a crackling crunch.
             
Goodband grows Honeycrisp, but he isn't a huge fan of it himself. It's too one-note, he says. And get this: He claims that even his pigs don't like it. If he puts Honeycrisps in their trough, he says, they'll tip it over. "They just have gotten used to more complex flavors," he jokes. "They're interested at first, but then, you know, I can tell in their eyes that they're looking for something more."
             
The picking crew on Scott Farm is made up of six men, all from Jamaica, in their 50s and 60s. They'll pick 22 tractor-trailers of apples over the course of a season. Then, it's home to Jamaica and their own farms, where they raise sweet potatoes, sugar cane and bananas.
             
Their devotion to this place — and to Goodband — is clear: Some of the men have worked for him for more than 20 years. The workers say they're proud to know all of these uncommon apples, and they treat them almost with affection. When they prop their wooden ladders against the treetops they maneuver them gently, and they're careful with the fruit.
             
On this day — as they pick Hubbardston, Holstein and Red Cortland — they sing Bob Marley as they harvest fruit from the treetops.
             
With ripe fruit all around, you might think they'd be tempted to snack, but Michael Johnson says that's not the case. The apples at the top of the trees call to him, he says, and "it's fun to get them." And then: "Into the bin!"
             
Self-described apple geek Rowan Jacobsen traces his "apple awakening" to Goodband's fruit, which Jacobsen discovered years ago at his local food co-op. Jacobsen's new book, Apples of Uncommon Character, is an homage to these heirloom varieties.
            
 Jacobsen has brought a new apple — the Pixie Crunch, developed in a 1970s university apple breeding program — back with him from a trip to Washington state. It's small, round and bright red, the perfect size for a child's hand. Jacobsen thinks this small apple has a big future.
             
But these trends can be hard to predict. Jacobsen describes a conversation he had about this apple with some big industrial growers out in Washington: One grower was convinced the Pixie Crunch was the next big apple. The other grower was skeptical that they could find demand for such a small fruit.
             
"There's really this tension right now, even among big guys," Jacobsen says. "Some of them have this old-school mentality of what the market wants. There's kind of a disconnect — because the market that I know actually likes small apples, and likes different apples."

As for Goodband, he's not interested in the Pixie Crunch — too sweet, he says. And he's not interested in apples designed to travel well for long distances. His is small-batch agriculture, sold locally. His apples cost more than conventional fruit, but Goodband only grows fruit that delights him.
            
 "I've got to be dazzled," he says, and, he wants his customers to be dazzled, too.
             
He hopes to reintroduce people to fruit that customers might remember their grandparents growing. Or to introduce them for the first time to fruit that doesn't make it to stores because it doesn't ship well or because it is only at its peak for a week or two. This, he says, is the experience he's looking for:
             
"When I give people one of these apples, they'll come back next week and say, 'Oh, that was the best apple I've ever had in my life. I didn't know apples could taste like that!' "
             
At 61, Goodband says the heirloom trees he grows will last beyond his lifetime. Now, he says, it's his turn to teach someone else — someone younger — how to keep them going.

To Cut or Not to Cut
National Gardening Association @ garden.org

That is the question -- the one you ask yourself in the fall as you survey your flower garden, pruners in hand. Which perennials should you cut back and which should you leave standing? Although your initial impulse may be to cut all your herbaceous plants back to tidy things up when the weather turns cold, leaving the tops of some plants in place over the winter can add interest to an otherwise bleak landscape and provide food for seed-eating birds. It can also help some plants make it through the winter more reliably. But there are also good reasons for cutting back certain perennials as soon as their tops are killed by frost. Here's some advice on when to wield your clippers and when to wait.
             
Add Winter Interest: Some perennials that grace the garden with beautiful blossoms early in the season continue to enliven the garden with their interesting seedpods in fall and winter. Baptisia's elongated black seed pods stand out against the snow, as do those of Siberian irises, and both are useful in dried arrangements indoors. The dried flower heads of yarrow (Achillea) add a horizontal note, while plants such as 'Autumn Joy' sedum and Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium), with large, rounded flower clusters, remain as lacy globes over the winter.
             
Ornamental grasses are some of the most dramatic plants in the winter landscape. Tall plumes feather reed grass (Calamagrostis) and switch grass (Panicum) add vertical accents to the winter landscape. Just be sure to cut plants back in early spring before growth emerges to avoid damaging the new shoots.
             
Benefit Birds and Butterflies: Goldfinches and other feathered visitors will stop in winter to dine on the seedheads of plants such as black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), heliopsis, and purple coneflower (Echinacea). The seedheads of many annuals will also provide treats for passing birds if blossoms are allowed to go to seed and remain through the winter. Cosmos, coreopsis, bachelor's buttons, and zinnias are some of the flowers whose seeds will feed sparrows, finches and juncos. But do keep in mind that plants like rudbeckia and purple coneflower may self-sow enthusiastically and you'll need to be prepared for some ruthless weeding come spring if you let their flowers go to seed.
             
Perennials left standing can also provide spots for butterflies and other beneficial insects to overwinter, either as pupae, caterpillars, or eggs, and offer them cover from predators like birds and spiders.
             
Offer Cold Protection: Some perennials are more likely to survive winter's cold if they aren't cut back until spring. Frikart's aster (Aster frikartii), Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), chrysanthemums, agastache, and red hot poker (Kniphofia) all benefit from the insulation that the old foliage provides to the crown of the plant.
            
 Leave Basal and Evergreen Foliage: And finally, there are those plants that produce a clump of new basal leaves late in the season, like Shasta daisies and globe thistle. You can cut down the spent taller growth or bare flower stalks, but leave the basal foliage undisturbed. Also, don't cut back low-growing evergreen or semi-evergreen perennials, like some hardy geraniums, heucheras, hellebores, dianthus, and moss phlox. These can be tidied up in the spring, if need be.
             
Mark Late Sprouters: A few perennials are notorious for their late emergence in spring. If you leave at least a portion of the tops of butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), and balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus) standing, you won't lose track of their location and accidentally damage them by digging into them before they sprout in spring.
             
Start Cutting!: Daylilies look pretty raggedy by the end of the season. They don't add anything visually to the winter garden and getting rid of their browning foliage and bare flower stalks improves the appearance of the landscape. The foliage of other plants, such as brunnera and veronica, turns black and becomes mush after its been hit by frost and from an aesthetic standpoint is best removed. I've also found that it's much, much easier to cut down the tops of plants that don't have tough leaf stalks, like daylilies and Siberian irises, when they are still relatively crisp and upright in the fall. By spring their leaves have become a fallen, sodden clump that can be a real challenge to cut away.
             
The tops of some perennials, such as bearded iris, peonies, bee balm, and garden phlox, often serve as reservoirs for overwintering insects or disease spores and are best cut down and consigned to the trash or sent to a municipal hot composting operation. It's a good idea to cut back and destroy any disease-infected or insect-infested plant debris. When I'm not sure if the pest organism overwinters in or on plant material, I err on the side of caution and get rid of it.
             
What About the Rest?: For many other perennials, it's up to you whether to cut back now or in spring. You'll offer the most benefits to wildlife if you leave the most plant material standing until spring. But spring is also a very busy time for most gardeners and you may choose to take advantage of the slower pace and pleasant weather in autumn to get at least some of your garden clean-up chores out of the way.
           
Weed: My most unwanted plant
by Cortney Moore (fortcollinsnursey.com)

The word weed makes me cringe. It makes my skin crawl. I am not talking about the weed that has been on the minds of most people in Colorado this year. The weed I am talking about is a plant growing where I don’t want it. It is a plant growing vigorously or in some cases in an invasive manner.
           
 Last year I started a major project in my yard. Think Bobcat Skid-steer Tractor, 7 tons of flagstones and a whole lot of soil moving going on. So much soil was moved from one area to another that by the end of the season the weeds had gotten out of control. At this point, I thought I needed to do something about them. I yanked as many as I could. While I was playing tug of war with the nasty buggers, a million lovely little pepper speck seeds dropped to the ground. I waited too long. I felt defeated, but fall was too busy to do much about the new problem I had created.
             
Through the winter I stared out the kitchen window and contemplated bringing in truckloads of mulch or covering the ground with cardboard to suppress the seeds. I never actually got around to this and with March upon us, the amount of moisture in the ground and all those seeds out there are on my mind. Visions of weeds springing to life as temperatures warm haunt me. In order to get a jump on the weeds before they become the headlining plant in my yard this year, I concocted a plan to take care of these green devils. I am determined to make my yard an enjoyable place fit for entertaining this season. Read on to learn my plan of attack.
             
Depending on what the weather decides to do, I will apply a pre-emergent product sometime in March. Pre-emergents do not kill seeds; they destroy young weed seedlings so the product must be present prior to germination. Initially I thought about using corn gluten, but the research I read said corn gluten is most effective as a pre-emergent weed control in an established lawn and is less effective in open and disturbed soil like my yard, so it appears that for my application I will need a chemical type. Pre-emergents stop all seeds from germinating and I am planning to sow a cover crop so I will have to be aware of the amount of time the product is active in the soil before I put my cover crop seed down. I am still deciding which cover crop to use and need to do more research.
             
My next line of defense will be post-emergent. I will incorporate as many post-emergent methods as necessary to put the smack down on these monsters. I prefer mechanical methods, such as using my long handle weeder, hula hoe and spreading mulch or other weed barriers. I know I have some fairly aggressive weeds out there and some chemical warfare will be necessary, especially on the cotton wood suckers from the tree my neighbor cut down last year. Yes, they are weeds too. Remember: A plant growing where I don’t want it.
             
I love my long handle weeder. I love it so much that I have been known to give it to friends who come over and have never had one. Part of the joy of gardening is sharing. So I just give it to them and buy another. This type of weeder doesn’t always get the entire root, but it can pop baby dandelions out as they emerge.
             
The Hula hoe is another one of my favorite tools for mechanical control. I also consider it a bit of an upper body work out when I use it so I can skip the gym that day.
             
Mulch is a must have in my yard. It not only suppresses weeds, it improves soil, conserves water, and has many other benefits. (Join us for The Magic of Mulch class on Sunday, May 18th to learn more.) For large areas I load my truck at free pick up locations. This leaves me more money to buy plants. When I want something more decorative or a specialty mulch, I visit my local garden center.
             
While I prefer mechanical weed control, I do occasionally reach for the bottle. The products listed below are what work for me. Please read labels thoroughly and talk with your nursery professionals before using any of the products. That is the only motherly warning you will hear from me today.
             
Fertilome Weed Free Zone is my go to for getting an early start. It works in cooler temperatures so I like it as weeds start to green up in the spring and the mornings are still in the 40s and 50s.
            
 Fertilome Brush and Stump Killer is potent but it is necessary for suckers when your neighbor takes an ancient cottonwood out and don’t kill the entire root system, or you try to dig honey locusts, choke cherries or aspens and they just keep coming back. I always try my trusty shovel on suckers first and use Brush and Stump Killer as a last resort. A word of caution: Brush and Stump Killer is not Sucker Stopper. It will kill the entire root system and plant. Do not use on suckers that are attached to a desirable plant.
             
Now don’t get the impression that I am a manic welding a sprayer full of poison. I am a realistic gardener who attempts all other methods before going for the heavy hitters but sometimes it takes what it takes.
             
I advocate for controls that are citric acid or acetic acid based too. They don’t kill the root and often have to be applied more than once. If you can burn the top growth enough the root won’t get fed and presto! No more weed.
             
As long as I stick to the plan, I imagine I will emerge the victor in my war on weeds. I figure it will take a full season of diligent weeding to really make a difference. The thing that keeps me going is inviting all my friends to see the progress and enjoy the relaxing setting of the living flagstone patio, mini orchard and various other garden rooms. I am always looking for more garden friends so connect with me and maybe you’ll get an invite!
             
For more gardening and more connecting with Cortney Moore check out mooregarden.com.

How to Plant Chinese Dogwood From a Seed

Sometimes called kousa dogwood, the Chinese dogwood (Cornus kousa) is a deciduous shrub species prized for its showy flower bracts and purple autumn foliage. It is widely grown throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 8, where it is used as an ornamental tree or shrub.

1.     Gather Chinese dogwood seeds in autumn after the fruit ripens to a bright, raspberry red color. Collect two or three fruit and place them in a plastic bag. Gently crush the fruit with a rolling pin to loosen the seeds.
2.     Place the crushed Chinese dogwood fruit in a bowl of water. Soak them overnight, stirring occasionally. Pick out the oblong, light-brown seeds and discard the remainder of the fruit.
3.     Fill a plastic sandwich bag with moist sphagnum moss. Bury the Chinese dogwood seeds in the sphagnum moss and seal the bag. Store the bag in the refrigerator for two to three months to cold-stratify the seeds. Remoisten the sphagnum moss, as needed.
4.     Sow the Chinese dogwood seeds in individual 6-inch greenhouse pots filled with a mix of equal parts sterile compost, loam and perlite. Sow them at a depth of 1/10-inch. Water them to a 2-inch depth after sowing.
5.     Place the potted Chinese dogwood seeds inside a lightly shaded, unventilated cold frame. Warm the pots with a germination mat set to between 70 and 75 F. Turn off the mat at night.
6.     Check the moisture level in the growing mixture twice daily during the germination process. Thoroughly moisten the top inch of the soil whenever the surface feels barely moist. Do not allow it to dry out completely on the surface.
7.     Watch for signs of germination in approximately three months. Turn off the germination mat after the Chinese dogwood seeds sprout. Open the cold frame to increase air circulation around the seedlings and to acclimate them to normal outdoor conditions.
8.     Move the Chinese dogwood seedlings to a sheltered area of the garden after the last spring frost. Provide 1-inch of water each week, if no rain falls for one week or longer. Protect the seedlings from direct midday sun until they produce several sets of mature leaves.
9.     Grow the Chinese dogwood seedlings under light shade during their first summer to prevent heat stress and dehydration. Water weekly to a 1-inch depth. Acclimate them to direct sun in early autumn to prepare them from transplant into the garden.
10.  Transplant the Chinese dogwoods into the garden in autumn after the first rainfall. Choose a sunny or lightly shaded planting site with moist, draining soil. Space multiple shrubs 15 to 30 feet apart.
11.  Things You Will Need: Plastic bag, Rolling pin, Bowl, Plastic sandwich bag  Sphagnum moss, 6-inch greenhouse pots, Sterile compost Loam, Perlite, Cold frame, Germination mat

Horti-Culture Corner

"Along the side roads the bright gold of thin-leafed wild sunflowers
gleams from its dust covering and attracts the eye as quickly as mention of easy money.   
Purple ironweed is diminishing in the pastures;
thistles are down to their last silken tassels;
goldenrod pours its heap of raw gold into the general fund."

-  Rachel Peden