Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
September 2013
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Garden Club Kicks off 2011-12 Season
Monday Sept. 23 @ 7:00 p.m. Pitkin Community Center
"What Happens in Iowa, Stays in Iowa – Or Not"
The September program will be given by our own Richard
Prentice, who will tell us what he did on his summer vacation. Seriously, he
joined a group of cyclists who travelled across Iowa! And while he has the
floor, I'm sure he'll remind us all to pay our dues!
Open to the public – bring a prospective member!
2013-2014 Club Officers
President: Tony
Sanders
Vice President: John Swingen Jr.
Vice President: John Swingen Jr.
Secretary: James
Sulzen
Treasurer: Richard Prentice
Treasurer: Richard Prentice
Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan
Okay. So, just like all of us do, you go to the
health club every day where you spend at least sixty minutes doing a
combination of cardio exercises (sprinting on the treadmill, cranking away on
the elliptical, spinning your buns off on the stationary bike), and strength
(free weights, chin-ups, pushups, flys, dead lifts) topped off by some power
yoga for balance and flexibility.
And you garden.
So, like me,
you’ve got to wonder – does the gardening count as a workout?
(Ignore the
irony of the question. The reason that
we 21st century people are going to gyms at all is, of course, because we don’t
get anywhere near as much physical activity in our every day lives as our
ancestors who spent their days horticulturing did.)
Anyway – can
gardening be the means to a leaner, meaner body?
“No way!” says
at least one Personal Trainer.
“To better
understand just how effective gardening is as a form of exercise, let's
consider just who can garden. Or better yet-who can't.
“Not many
people can't garden. This says something right off the bat. If just about all
populations can perform a particular activity, its challenge to the
musculoskeletal and cardiovascular systems is quite minimal.
“Gardening is
popular among people of retirement age. Also, even people with severe mobility
issues can garden. Gardening is busy work. It requires attention to detail,
focus, knowledge and patience. It produces relaxation, the satisfaction of a
job well-done, and chemical-free vegetables or fragrant flora. Gardening
exercises the mind more than the cardio and musculoskeletal systems.”
“Peh!” I
say. Obviously this apartment-living
city-dweller has absolutely no idea how physically demanding gardening work can
be – especially if it is done right, or more accurately if it is done in the
most difficult way possible.
Take for
example lawn maintenance. Hop onboard
the riding mower, turn the key, and tool around the property. Zero calories calorie burn, zero raise in
heart rate, zero muscle strain.
But do the
same job on-foot pushing a self-propelled mower and, according to the super-scientifically
accurate calculator I found on the Internet, you burn 386 calories per hour (if
you weight 183 pounds – a number I just pulled out of the air). BTW you can use up roughly the same number of
calories/hour by raking up the mess afterwards.
Take away the
self-propulsion – like my Toro “Self Pace” model – and the weight loss
increases by 104 calories. (I really
like the marketing folks at Toro who came up with a spiffy name for a feature
that is essentially the lack of a feature.)
Now try the
same job with a forty-year old mower motor that refuses to turn over until
somewhere between the thirty-fourth and fifty-ninth pull on the starter rope –
on a good day. You can actually feel
your arm getting stronger, and longer, with every tug you take. Alternate your arms for a more complete
workout and to avoid the need for custom made long-sleeve shirts. To get even more out of this exercise,
disconnect the spark plug and/or empty the gas tank.
And how about
watering?
In-ground
sprinkler = 0 calories. Above ground
sprinkler = 1. Standing and spraying =
1.5. But what about watering cans?
There is a
famous Zen saying, "Before Enlightenment chop wood carry water, after
Enlightenment, chop wood carry water." What’s it mean? Who knows?
Anyway, from
another Internet source at least as trustworthy as the above calorie
calculator, here is the “Red Can Watering Exercise.” (My watering pails are orange so I’m probably
not getting the full benefit, but nonetheless…)
“First get two
red 10 L watering cans. (Red watering cans work best but any other color will
work too!) Gently raise them up and walk 150 yards to the water supply. Bend
and stretch while slowing allowing your can to fill up. Raise and put can down.
Repeat with the other can.
“Once full point
both cans in the same direction to balance out, then return the 150 yards to
where your veg plot (or flower plot if you prefer). Drop down the can using a
side motion. Then walk to the first bed raise the can above the plants. With a
slow side-to-side motion cover the plants in water. If you need to you can
support the bottom of the can.
“Repeat this
with the other can.
“Once the cans
are empty gently bend to pick them up. Repeat the whole process another 12 to
14 times each day or every other day for maximum effect.
“In a few
weeks you will lose weight and have lots of veggies.
“If you need
to warm up first, do so by walking a mile or so to the plot. Always consult
your doctor before taking any exercise. They will probably say ‘whatever’ and
shrug their shoulders - but do it anyway!”
Next month –
aerobic and acrobatic exercises anyone can do with an 8 ?” Japanese pruning
saw, and an eighty foot oak tree.
Guarding the Garden Toad from Harm
By Lois Tilton (LTilton) www.davesgarden.com
By consuming
thousands of insects and other pests during the course of a season, the toad is
one of the best helpers a gardener can have. Unfortunately, the gardener can be
the toad's worst enemy.
Every spring,
as the ground begins to warm up, I wait for the toads to begin singing down at
the pond. Sometimes, when they are late
emerging from hibernation, I worry.
Existence is perilous for a toad.
Environmental degradation has caused amphibian populations worldwide to
decline. Closer at hand, the toads must
face the effects of drought in the dwindling pond, and predators, including a
burgeoning population of voracious bullfrogs.
The children's book notwithstanding, Bullfrog and Toad are not really
friends!
The toads that
sing in the pond at the edge of my property are the American toad, Bufo
americanus. The details in this article
refer to this species, but they may apply to any member of the genus Bufo. The American toad's skin is mottled, usually brown with darker spots, and quite
warty. A large female may grow to as
much as 4 inches in length. Like many
other members of this genus, it exudes a bufotoxin that coats its skin and
makes it unpalatable to many predators [although not bullfrogs]. It is by any measure a common toad, the most
widespread species in North America.
While B americanus is not threatened or endangered in its range,
individual populations can be put at risk by many local factors.
Most
threatening are the effects of human activity.
The gardener, who stands to benefit so much from the industry of the
toad, can inadvertently do it more harm than any other agency. The toad's usefulness in the garden is
measured by its diet. It exists
primarily on common garden pests, such as slugs, grubs, snails, sowbugs,
earwigs, cutworms, and destructive caterpillars. With its long, sticky tongue, B americanus is
a successful predator that can eliminate as many as ten thousand of these
undesirables in a growing season.
To safeguard
the toad, it is important to understand its life cycle. Many people mistakenly believe the toad is an
aquatic or semi-aquatic animal, like the frog, but for most of its life the
toad is terrestrial. Only in spring,
emerging from hibernation, does it make its way to the shallow edge of the pond
to spawn. Toads prefer to return to the
same body of water where they themselves were spawned, and may travel up to a
mile to reach it. There, at night and sometimes during warm rainy days, the
males begin their chorus of song to attract females.
The male tightly grasps the female, who then
releases her long strings of gelatinous black eggs into the water to be
fertilized by the male. Each female can
lay several thousand eggs that hatch into tadpoles within ten days or less,
depending on the temperature of the water.
It can take one to two months for the tadpoles to develop into
toads; during this phase, they are
entirely aquatic and highly vulnerable to contamination of the water, as well
as predation by such creatures as bullfrogs.
It is a profligate survival strategy;
out of the thousands of eggs laid, less than a dozen will survive to
maturity.
In summer, the
toadlets complete their metamorphosis and hop out of the pond to begin their
lives on land. In this phase, it can be
hard to tell them from crickets, and they are now vulnerable to predation from
birds instead of bullfrogs. Fortunately,
even at this stage they secrete sufficient bufotoxin to repel many predators.
Except in the
breeding season, toads are mainly concerned with finding food and shelter. They do not like the drying heat of the sun,
which is why they are nocturnal and why they look for a damp, cool place to
make their home. Since gardens tend to
be watered or irrigated, they naturally attract toads, who usually find a
plentiful supply of slugs and other toad-appropriate prey. If a toad settles into a spot and is
undisturbed, it will not only remain but return, year after year, to the same
location.
Toads are
excellent diggers and often excavate dens in soft soil or mulch – toads love
mulch. They dig out a cavity with their
rear feet, appearing to sink backwards into the hole. There they will rest during the day and
emerge at night to hunt for food. When
the weather turns colder, the toads prepare to hibernate, either by digging out
their den to a deeper level or by finding a more protected location. There they remain until the warm weather of
spring brings them out again to spawn.
It takes two or three years for a toad to reach breeding maturity, and
if fortunate it may have another three seasons to live and reproduce.
So the toad
lived in harmony and mutual benefit with the gardener for hundreds of
years. Unfortunately, changes in
gardening technology have been at the expense of the toads. While tilling and cultivating were carried on
by hand, with spade and hoe or horse-drawn plow, these activities did not
greatly endanger the toad. However, a
riding mower at full throttle with a speed-crazed teenager at the helm is
another matter. Lawnmowers, rototillers
and weed-wackers all wreak carnage on the toad population. In the garden, a toad's natural camouflage
can work against it, making it all too hard to distinguish from a clod of dirt.
What to
do? Besides hiring a horse and
plow? First of all, simply taking care
will save a great number of toads.. These creatures are alert to danger, with
acute hearing. They can tell when a
weed-wacker is approaching the border where they are concealed in the overgrown
grass or weeds. So when you are using
machinery, be aware where toads are
likely to be hiding, be alert to spot them, and give them a chance to hop out
of danger. Don't be in such a hurry to
get the job done that you run over the toads in your way.
Another
effective way to protect your toads is to provide them a shelter. The classic method of making a toad house is
to cut a toad-sized opening in the rim of a terra-cotta pot and set it upside
down in the soil, preferably in a shady spot.
The unglazed terra-cotta absorbs water and keeps the toad house nice and
moist and cool in the heat of the day.
It can be difficult to cut the opening without cracking the pot,
however; some people claim to have
success with drilling pilot holes or using a tile saw. I take the easy way out and simply prop up
one edge of the pot with a couple of flat stones. The toads haven't complained.
Some people
enjoy providing more elaborate houses for their toads. But many kinds of garden decorations and
building materials can serve just as well as toad sanctuaries – flagstones,
retaining walls, statuary. Toads are not
demanding. A compost heap, a couple of
rocks, a woodpile – any of these are likely to harbor a happy toad. Last year, I found a small colony of them
living contentedly in the deep, damp straw covering my potato patch. They were not so pleased, however, when I
raked away the straw and started to dig up the tubers.
The other
great danger to toads is through the use of pesticides and other garden
chemicals. Look on the label of these
products, and you are likely to see an environmental warning that they are
toxic to aquatic organisms such as tadpoles. Pesticides, herbicides,
fungicides, even nitrogen-based fertilizers – any of these may be poisonous or
harmful to amphibians if they contaminate the water in which they breed. This includes chemicals applied anywhere that
runoff can carry them into the pond.
But adults are
almost as vulnerable as the tadpoles, even after they have left the water. The
skin of a toad is permeable; rather than
drinking, it absorbs water by osmosis through the skin of its belly. In doing so, it also absorbs any chemicals it
comes into contact with. While a toad
shelter may provide some protection against direct application, these chemicals
can still be deadly when the spray drifts onto the ground. There is simply no doubt: the more organic your garden practices, the
safer it will be for toads.
There is one
more thing you can do for toads: make
them a pond. Without a body of water in
which to spawn, toads can not breed. The
pond need not be overly large or even permanent, as long as it does not dry out
during the spring and early summer, while the tadpoles are growing. The ideal pond should have shallow sloping
sides where the toads can enter the water.
Besides the toad pond here, I have a smaller ornamental pond elsewhere
on my property, where for years I tried to attract toads until I realized that
they did not care for its steep, straight sides. [Small bullfrogs, unfortunately, had no such
problem with it, leaping to and from the lily pads.] There should be vegetation growing both in
the water and along the margins of the pond to provide cover for the tadpoles
and shelter for the mating toads, as well as attracting insects for them to
eat.
If you build
it for them, the toads will come. And if
you keep the water safe from contamination, they will reward you in the spring
with delightful song.
Get Frogs & Toads to Eat Your Bad Bugs!
Q. Mike: We
have problems with cucumber beetles and squash bugs. We've used organic sprays
and hand picking without much effect, and want to avoid chemical insecticides.
What can we do about these obnoxious critters?
---Kim in Norman, OK
Do you have a solution to a growing problem with mole
crickets on our ball fields? The only answers I can find online involve heavy
pesticides, and we try and put nothing on our grounds that would affect the
water quality (we like to be able to eat our local seafood) or be harmful to
anyone who may “eat grass” in the course of a ball game.
---Cecile; Carteret County Parks and Recreation; Morehead
City, NC
I have had trouble with sod webworms in my lawn for a
number of years….
---Bob in Pueblo, CO
What is the best way to control potato beetles? Hand picking
is not feasible.
---Jim in Titusville, New Jersey
Last year I thought I had ladybugs in my garden only to
discover they were Mexican bean beetles! They were so destructive; what can I
do about them this year?
---Gwen in Hot Springs, NC
Slugs eat holes in most of my flowers, but I’m concerned
about how to stop them because we have a dog. Can you recommend something?
Thank you,
---Marsha in Massillon, Ohio
Gypsy Moth caterpillars have denuded our local oaks,
pines, mountain laurel and even wild blueberry plants. What can I do to protect
my landscape?
---Jim in Chatsworth, NJ
I have little red ants in my organic garden that like to
bite. How can I get rid of them?
---Cindy in Central California (Bakersfield area)
Is there a way to control ants with natural organisms
like beneficial nematodes? I have two dogs and don't want to use anything that
will endanger them. Thanks,
---Bob in Earlville, Maryland (near the Chesapeake Bay)
A. Beneficial
nematodes control pests like beetle grubs and flea larvae, unfortunately not
ants. But all you have to do to stop them is drop the ‘nema’ and get with
toads! Voracious predators of garden pests, toads (and frogs) are especially
fond of ants.
Back when I
was editor of ORGANIC GARDENING magazine, our researchers discovered that a
single toad will eat tens of thousands of pests in a single season, typically
consuming two to three times it’s weight in the above named creatures—plus
flies, earwigs, grasshoppers, pillbugs and cutworms—every day. (Actually every
evening, as that’s when toads are out a ‘hunting.) And toads and frogs are
virtually the only beneficial creatures that eat cucumber beetles, a garden
pest that makes itself taste bitter when it feeds on your cuke vines!
Attracting
frogs and toads won’t harm the local water quality. In fact, access to clean
water is one of their biggest necessities. The other is protection from
pesticides. Because of their porous skin, frogs and toads (and salamanders and
other beneficial amphibians) are helpless against toxic herbicides,
insecticides and fungicides. So resolve to shun those nerve toxins and hormonal
disruptors this Leap Year Day, February 29th; when conservationists are
launching “the year of the frog” to try and raise awareness and stem the tragic
decline in amphibian species. Do your part to help keep the ‘leap’ in Leap Year
and get rid of your pests at the same time!
(Note: Organic
remedies like beneficial nematodes, corn gluten meal and the iron phosphate
baits used to control slugs are perfectly safe for use around amphibians.)
Now, toads are
ubiquitous—they’re also everywhere; in every state in the union, often reaching
deep into the heart of cities, especially cities with well-established park
systems. To get these cute little amphibians to control your pest problems, let
nearby areas go wild with plants that throw a heavy shade. Or build little toad
sanctuaries by placing some bricks on the ground to support boards and then
covering the boards with plant pots or soil, creating a cool, damp, dark little
cave-like structure they can hide in during the day. If you choose to use those
cute little terra-cotta ‘toad abodes’, be sure to keep them in damp, shaded
areas; they become toad microwaves out in the sun!
You’ll also
want to place water sources at ground level near plants having pest problems;
birdbath saucers sunk flush to the earth work great for this. The toads will
naturally migrate to the moisture when they come out at night and then eat the
closest bugs. Rinse the saucers out once or twice a week to keep the water
fresh and foil mosquito breeding.
There’s no
need to relocate toads from a nearby park unless your garden is a backyard in
the middle of a concrete cavern of a big city; and even then, they’re probably
still around. Whatever you do, don’t release mail order, pet store or otherwise
imported toads or frogs; such non-native species quickly become their own pest
problem.
Frogs require
a fairly large, year-round water source in which to breed. And they prefer to
be alone in that water in the Spring, when their eggs and tadpoles are helpless
against hungry fish. But such a pond or water feature is well worth the effort,
as it will also greatly increase your toad population and attract hordes of
desirable birds, butterflies, dragonflies and beneficial insects.
And its easy
to prevent mosquitoes breeding in that water with a monthly application of BTI.
A completely non-toxic natural organism isolated from soils, BTI prevents
mosquito (and black fly) larvae from developing without harming fish, birds, or
anything else.
Horti-Culture Corner
That afternoon the dream of the toads rang through the
elms by Little River and affected the thoughts of men, though they were not
conscious that they heard it.
Henry David Thoreau
How to Rid Your Yard of Toads & Their Holes
by Jkalal Assar, Demand Media Google
Toads
contribute to the vitality of landscapes, provide valuable services in the
yard, such as consuming pests, and serve as good indicators of the ecosystem –
if the toads and frogs are healthy, most likely so is your yard. However, for
most, toads have an unsightly appearance, croak too loudly and dig unappealing
holes when burrowing. The most humane, effective method of getting rid of toads
in your yard is taking them out of their comfort zone. That is, reducing their
food supply and limiting their options for living areas.
1. Remove all woodpiles, unused planters, empty pots and
collections of yard debris in your yard. Toads prefer damp, dark places to
inhabit when not feeding. Removing the toads’ living spaces forces them to move
elsewhere for shelter.
2. Fill any holes in your yard in winter with soil until
it reaches 4 inches from ground level and tamp down firmly. Fill again until 4
inches from ground level and plug with sod if desired. If you decide not to
plug the hole with sod, add soil until it reaches ground level. Toads burrow
underground in winter and estivate, or enter a dormant stage, until the weather
warms. Filling their burrows traps them inside or prevents them from entering the
burrow.
3. Pull all weeds in your yard by hand or use a
general-purpose herbicide containing the active ingredients 2,4-D or dicamba.
Frogs inhabit groups of weeds and lie in wait for insects when feeding in the
late hours. Herbicides also purportedly disturb toads’ endocrine systems,
causing them to expire.
4. Remove the water from vessels such as fountains,
birdbaths and pet bowls. This rids your yard of toads two ways: it removes a
natural attraction – water – and reduces mosquitos, one of toads’ primary food
sources.
5. Remove open dishes of pet food from the yard. Toads
are omnivorous and eat dog and cat food if needed
Welcome the Least-Loved Critters
by GingerVaughan
Farmers Almanac
It turns out
that there are some garden “pests” that you should welcome with open arms. The Old Farmer’s Almanac All-Seasons Garden
Guide explains how some other creepy creatures can be great garden helpers. So
you may want to think again before sending ill-will towards them.
PRAISE SNAKES:
Garter snakes are most common in North America and are no threat at all to
humans. Their backyard prey include slugs, grasshoppers, and small rodents,
including the voles that chew bark off your fruit trees. They eat bullfrog
tadpoles, because adults are too big to swallow. In fact, Adult bullfrogs
devour garter snakes, so many that in some areas, garter snake populations have
declined.
ROMANCE A
TOAD: These amphibians go to work when the Sun goes down looking for
mosquitoes, slugs, sow bugs, flies, beetles, cutworms, and caterpillars. Toads
have gotten a bum rap as the cause of warts. However, warts are caused by a
human virus.
BRING ON THE
BATS: Without bats, we would be up to our necks in bugs. From dusk til dawn,
bats skim the skies with open mouths, devouring mosquitoes, wasps, flies,
gnats, midges, moths, and beetles. Bats
are in deadly danger. Millions have been killed by a fungal disease called
White-nose syndrome. Insects may be celebrating, but gardeners and farmers are
not.
SET YOUR
SIGHTS ON SPIDERS: Spiders eat lots and lots of insects. These super predators
spin webs to help catch their prey. Their webs are even used by Hummingbirds to
glue their nests together. Did you know,
Spider silk reflects UV light, which warns away birds but attracts bugs.
Ginger Vaughan has worked for The Old Farmer's Almanac
for over a decade. Like the Almanac she strives to be "useful, with a
pleasant degree of humor."
The Final Word on Toads
What do you call an illegally parked frog?
Toad.
What do toads drink?
Croaka-cola
What kind of shoes do frogs wear?
Open toad sandals