Friday, March 7, 2014

March 2014


Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
March 2014
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"Backyard Composting" 
@ Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield March Meeting
Monday March 24 @ 7:00 pm in the Pitkin Community Center

      The March 24 meeting of the MGCoW will feature Marty Sienko, President - Connecticut Community Gardening Association, Master Gardener and Advanced Master Composter, speaking on “Backyard Composting”.  The public is invited. 



Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan



I am writing this on March 1, 2014 – hoping that the Groundhog was wrong and that the Old Farmer’s Almanac turns out to be unnecessarily pessimistic.   

       
Here is their 2014 Long-Range Weather Forecast for Hartford, Connecticut: average temperature 43° (1° below normal); precipitation 3" (1" below avg.); Mar 1-8: Snow showers, cold; Mar 9-14: Sunny, then showers, turning warm; Mar 15-16: Sunny, cool; Mar 17-21: Heavy rain, then sunny, cool; Mar 22-25: Rain, then sunny, cool; Mar 26-31: Sunny, then rainy, warm.

      
 I am itching like crazy to get my long-dormant garden hands on those winter-dried perennial stems that were left standing over the cold months in order to provide (a) food and shelter for the birds; (b) “winter interest” – i.e. cool shadows and freaky skeletal sculptures; and (c) something to do in early spring to get my frozen horticultural juices flowing again.

       
I am desperately looking forward to the first sunny day that requires no more clothing than a flannel shirt and perhaps a light down vest (and pants of course) – when I can retrieve my pruning shears and thin leather gloves from the bottom of my yard-work basket, and hew these deliberately neglected and now snow-crushed and pitiful looking desiccated twigs into piles of pick-up-sticks to be consigned to the first trash bin of the growing season.

      
 I am imagining the feel of my large red plastic leaf rake dragging debris from the bare space between my hacked-down herbage, and the gentle stroke of my hand-held shrub rake as my knees feel the cool, damp earth for the first time in several months –– and perhaps I uncover the first fresh-grown green anything of the year.

       
It’s all happened before – at the same time, in the same way.  So, even though as we all know “past performance is no guarantee of future results” – it could happen again.

       
That’s what I am hoping anyway – that as you read this at the end of the third month I will have experienced at least some of my “OMG, spring really is here” garden dreams – and you, yours.

     



 Horti-Culture Corner
Ode to Compost (verses 1, 2 and 5) by Lucas Land

Leaf and rind sit silent
atop the pile of waste
lifeless leftovers lingering
piled together in an organic grave

still sits the mound
quietly surveying the hum of activity
planting, watering, tending, milking, feeding, pruning,
harvesting, dancing, laughing, weeping, hoping

There is magic at work in the rotten stench
There is mystery to behold
in the watchman of the farm



Killer Compost: Raised Beds – It Happened to Us!
By Joe Lamp'l Host of “A Way to Garden”



 “A Way to Garden” airs on Robin Hood Radio (www.robinhoodradio.com/) on Monday at 8:30 AM Eastern, with a rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. It is available free on iTunes. Robin Hood is the smallest NPR station in the nation.

      
 I say it often; it’s alright to make mistakes as long as you learn from them—especially in the garden. Well, I made a doozy recently and have I ever learned from it.

      
 If you watched our Episode 406 on building out our GGWTV Vegetable Garden, you know how hard we’ve been working. I was especially proud when the time finally came to fill my beds with carefully selected, rich topsoil, organic compost and manure. And I was feeling particularly resourceful about utilizing the manure from right here on our farm. With horses, goats and chickens, we had a generous inventory that was well rotted and ready for the garden.

       
As a full time gardening communicator who prides himself at being in the know, I am also aware of the potential current hazards of using manure to amend garden soil. In recent years, it has become very apparent that some herbicides used to control weeds in farm fields persist for a very, very long time. Even worse, they don’t readily break down, even as composted manure!

       
So if I knew better, why did I do it? Chalk it up to my haste to fill my new garden beds, combined with the very unscientific assumption that it couldn’t happen to me syndrome. My rational for proceeding prior to the proper testing was also flawed. Conscience of the potential risk, I had been observing various weeds and plants springing to life from this massive, aged manure pile for weeks while failing to consider that not all plants are impacted by these herbicides in the same way.

       
Giving myself the green light to proceed with amending my soil with this free and abundant manure, I blended about 20% total volume to each bed in my garden. Then I planted every bed, including 20 varieties of tomatoes. And then I waited—and waited.

       
Herbicide Damage on TomatoesSomething wasn’t right. As my new plants finally started to grow, their leaves were so twisted and distorted, while other plants were severely stunted. I knew what happened—I just refused to believe it was true, and that it happened to me! To add insult to injury, even the hay I used as mulch contained the bad stuff because it came from the same source.

       
About a month later I finally confirmed my suspicion. The farmer that grows the hay that we buy for our horses made his periodic delivery. I didn’t waste a moment; “What type of herbicides to you put on your fields?” I asked. “Grazon” he replied—not the answer I wanted to hear. It’s all I needed to know. The trade names for the products you want to avoid are many. But the active ingredients of greatest concern are picloram, clopyralid, and aminopyralid because they can remain active in hay, grass clippings, piles of manure, and compost for an unusually long time. These herbicides eventually break down through exposure to sunlight, soil microbes, heat, and moisture. Depending on the situation, the herbicides can be deactivated in as little as a few months yet complete deactivation and breakdown can take several years!

       
So what will I do now? Many people I’ve consulted with didn’t hesitate to suggest I remove the soil from every bed and start fresh. I agree, it’s the best way to tackle the problem head on. Yet, considering the time, energy and expense of filling each of the 16 beds the first time, I can’t stomach the thought of removal and starting over.

       
The other option, and the one I’m taking, is to leave the soil in place, hoping through bioremediation, I can heal the existing beds. I’ve grown out the plants that are already there to see how they ultimately respond. After that, I’ll turn the beds to expose the soil to more to sunlight and air, and promote the soil microbe activity in each bed and hopefully deactivate the herbicides more quickly.  Then I plant cover crops in all the beds to keep the biological systems running above and below ground.

       
Cover Crops Thankfully, not all my plants were affected, yet hardest hit were the tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and beans. Remarkably, the cucumbers, okra, herbs, chard, beets, sweet potatoes and watermelon did fine, as did my ornamental annuals scattered throughout.

       
What should you do? Never use manure or even hay as mulch in your garden beds when you are unsure of the chemicals used in the field. It’s unfortunate but for now, it’s the only way you can be sure you are not transferring harmful, active herbicides to your garden. And lastly, farmers have a big responsibility in this as well. Please inform your customers if you are using herbicides that can be potentially devastating to home gardeners. My hope is that by next year, my soil will be restored and this is one mistake I know I’ll never make again.

       
If you want to see the segment we did on this for the television show, where Joe shows the actual damage and shows you how to test your manure before you put it in your garden, be sure to watch it here, in episode 410. (http://www.growingagreenerworld.com/weedless-gardening/)







What to do with a dead deer: Compost it
By Krisy Gashler (http://www.news.cornell.edu)



 Composting isn't just for veggie scraps. It's often the best way to deal with roadkill, livestock mortality and even large-scale animal deaths due to floods, fires or other catastrophes.

       
Many people, including some farmers, assume it's best to bury animals underground. In fact, it's safer and kills pathogens more effectively when carcasses are composted in unturned piles, according to Jean Bonhotal, director of the Cornell Waste Management Institute.

       
"Most of the time they get buried, but that brings them 6 feet closer to the water table," Bonhotal said.

       
Carcass fluids from improperly disposed animals can leach into wells, creeks or drain pipes, spreading bacteria and viruses.

       
"Composting is a fairly forgiving process. If we do it well, we can make a 1,200-pound animal disappear in three months. The bones will still be there, but the carcass will be gone," Bonhotal said.

       
But there are instances when composting is not appropriate. For example, animals with a prion disease, such as mad cow or chronic wasting disease, need to be incinerated or chemically treated. Cornell's alkaline hydrolysis digester, which uses high heat, high pressure and a chemical bath to quickly digest animal carcasses, is the state-designated facility to dispose of animals with prion diseases.

       
Most of the time, however, composting is the best way to go. It's faster, easier, more effective and, unlike burial, can be done year-round, Bonhotal said.

       
Rendering, a process that converts animal tissue into value-added materials such as tallow, is another option, but the industry can't manage as much of the dead stock as they have in the past, she said.

       
Bonhotal works with agencies and individuals to spread the message of proper animal waste disposal. Several years ago, the Waste Management Institute teamed up with the New York State Department of Transportation to address roadkill disposal; dead deer picked up by the agency are now composted.

      
 She also helped organize the fourth International Animal By-products Symposium held in May in Dearborn, Mich., and funded by the Department of Homeland Security through the National Center for Foreign Animal and Zoonotic Disease Defense and Michigan State University. Other topics discussed at the event included safely dealing with euthanized animals; containing animal-originated food disease outbreaks; and state, federal and international agency disaster response planning and policy.

       
There's still progress to be made in achieving best practices for animal carcass disposal, Bonhotal said.

       
Earlier this year, for example, 300 pigs were killed in a fire on an upstate farm and buried.

      
 "The day after a disaster, the farmers just want to have the animals gone. And they may not have the confidence that composting will work," Bonhotal said. "But they may pay for it later with environmental damage."

     





The world's ugliest plants: Green and unpleasant ugly plants



Ugly or intriguing? You be the judge in this battle of the aesthetically challenged to find the world's ugliest plant.

       
RHS [Royal Horticultura Society] experts have scoured the planet to produce a list of the world's 10 ugliest plants. Their choice spans the spectrum from the spiky to the hairy. Given the conditions in which many of these plants live – extreme temperatures and humidity – it's perhaps understandable that survival skills win over looks.

       
The frightful flora have also been handed the short straw when it comes to names: stinky squid, bastard cobas, monkey cups and vegetable sheep are a world away from the charms of the lily or rose.

       
However, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and the RHS wants gardeners to vote in a survey to find The World's Ugliest Plant. You can name your most objectionable plant and also defend the homely specimens you love. To take part, visit the RHS World's ugliest plant survey. The "winning'" plant may appear at the RHS Show Tatton Park (July 22-26).

       
Ugly Top 10

       
1 Bastard cobas (Cyphostemma juttae) A slow-growing, ornamental plant that can reach 6ft, also called wild grape, tree grape and Namibian grape. Plants are found in Namibia. The large shiny leaves tend to fall during winter and grape-like bunches appear near the end of summer.

       
2 Birthworts (Aristolochia gigantea) Also referred to as pipe vines, they are widespread and appear in various climates. The basis of

the plant is an intertwining stem with simple leaves. The flowers have a strong scent.

       
3 Elephant's trunk (Pachypodium namaquanum) Found in the North Cape of Namibia, the plant consists of a thick trunk, densely covered in spines. There is a crown at the top appearing during the growing months of winter, and velvet- textured flowers appear from August to October.

       
4 Corpse flower (Amorphophallus titanium) This plant only blooms every four to six years within its 40-year life expectancy. The flower is described as the world's largest; reaching 5ft high and 4ft wide. For eight hours of the three-day bloom, the flower emits a smell that is described as rotting flesh, attracting a carrion-eating beetle, for pollination. The plant is also known as an aphrodisiac.

       
5 Tree tumbo (Welwitschia mirabilis) The plant, found in south-west Africa, specifically Namibia and Angola, is considered a living fossil. Initially, the plant grows two leaves from one thick trunk and, as the plant continues to grow, the leaves may split. Some plants are estimated to be more than 1,000 years old.

      
 6 Thorn of the cross (Colletia paradoxa) Also known as gigs, curumamil, cross or crown of the cross. From South America, this slow-growing shrub with greyish flowers blooms in March and April. Often used as an ornamental plant for its fragrance, it is under threat of extinction, due to a loss of habitat.

       
7 Stinky squid (Pseudocolus fusiformis) A mushroom first reported in Pittsburgh, North America, in 1915. Often found at the edge of woods, in parks and gardens, usually in summer and autumn. The body first resembles a puffball, but later splits to form a stalk with arms that taper.

      
 8 Sea onion (Bowiea volubilis) Also known as the climbing onion, this plant originates from South Africa. The bulb is a pale green, with half growing underground. New branches appear each year, making it look like an elongated asparagus, with greenish flowers.

      
 9 Vegetable sheep (Raoulia eximia) Named because of the way it looks from a distance, this is found in New Zealand's Southern Alps. This shrub forms grey-white mounds and can spread 5ft. Tiny leaves are covered in hairs, with flowers beneath.

       
10 Monkey cups (Nepenthes) [Shown Below] Also commonly known as tropical pitcher plants, this plant comes from a family of more than 120 species. They are vine-forming, originating from south China, Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines. The plant grows as a climbing vine.










Here's the best new edible plants of 2014
By George Weigel http://blog.pennlive.com/



Just in time for your plant-planning pleasure is my annual four-part series on best new plants debuting in the coming season.

      
 I'll start today with the best new veggies, herbs and fruits, then pick up next week with best new annual flowers, then move on to best new perennials the following week, and finish off the last week of January with best new trees and shrubs.

       
Here you go:

       
Basil 'Try Basil.' This is a new potted plant mix from Burpee Home Gardens that puts three different basil varieties – a smooth, Italian 'Genovese' type, a crinkled green-leaf type and a purple-leaf version – in one pot.

       
It's Ann Hoffman's favorite new edible coming to Black Landscape Center in Upper Allen Twp. in spring.

       
"What took so long for someone to think of this wonderful idea?" she asks.

       
Lots of new twists await tomato aficionados this year, but this line of sweet/small/striped varieties from an independent California breeding farm is most curious.

       
The 'Tiger' series of Artisans is oblong in shape, while the 'Bumble Bee' series is more rounded. The seven total varieties range in color from yellow-green to orange to pink to purplish-red.

       
All keep producing all season until frost, and they're about as good-looking as good-tasting.

       
Seed is available from Johnny's Selected Seeds and Totally Tomatoes. 

      
 'Indigo' tomatoes. Oregon State University last year brought us a break-through new tomato color – true dark purple – in 'Indigo Rose.' It's that color because it's rich in anthocyanin, a disease-fighting antioxidant.

     
 New anthocyanin 'Indigos' debut this year in blends of dark red, blue/black and dark purple, including 'Indigo Apple,' 'Indigo Blue Beauty,' 'Indigo Blue Berries' and 'Indigo Kumquat Hybrid.' These are all cherry types and small fruiters.

       
'Indigos' are no slackers in the taste department either, based on early gardener feedback. Seed sources include Totally Tomatoes, Harris Seeds and Territorial Seed Co.    

       
You'll also find three other new varieties of 'Indigo' tomatoes in grafted plant form through Burpee Home Gardens' new Bumper Crop™ tomato line. That line also features a "Big Collection" of four grafted, large heirloom varieties and an "Early Collection" of three grafted, fast-maturing varieties.

       
Tomato 'Chef's Choice Orange.' This newcomer is one of two tomatoes to win All-America Selections honors in nationwide university trials.

      
 'Chef's Choice Orange' is a hybrid bred using the orange-fruited heirloom 'Amana Orange.' Like that one, it's bright orange in color.

      
 'Chef's Choice Orange' produces average 12-ounce fruits about 75 days after planting in the garden – significantly earlier, and also more disease-resistant, than 'Amana Orange.'

      
 Tomato 'Fantastico.' This is the other AAS tomato winner, and it's a red-fruited grape type.

       
'Fantastico's' attributes are: early to ripen, heavy in yield, resistant to late blight, resistant to cracking and compact in size, making it a good choice for container use.

       
Bean 'Mascotte.' The first bean to win an AAS award since 1991, 'Mascotte' is a bush filet-type green bean that grows a compact 18 inches, making it a good choice for pots as well as in the ground.

      
 I test-grew this one last summer and found that the beans were longer and slimmer than most (a skinny 6 inches) and totally stringless.

       
The yield was good. One other side benefit was that the beans formed high and toward the outside of the plants, making them easy to see and pick.

       
Squash 'Green Tiger.' This was my favorite new veggie that I test-grew last summer – a compact zucchini that produces attractive dark- and light-green striped fruits.

       
But beyond that, two practical advances impressed me more.

       
One was how fast 'Green Tiger' got busy, producing ready-to-pick fruits just 5 weeks after I direct-seeded in mid-May.

       
The other is how this variety refused to die under the usual squash vine borer attack. Even though the bugs nearly wiped it out, a couple of 'Green Tiger' stems kept fighting to produce enough fruits for regular picking until frost.

      
 I got my seed from Harris Seeds, but W. Atlee Burpee Co. and Jung Seed are others that carry it.

      
 The healthful fruits of this sprawling, viney shrub have long been popular in its native China, but goji berries recently become trendy in grocery, health-food and nutrition stores.

       
"Now this antioxidant super-fruit is available to home gardeners," says Bryan Benner, a grower at Dillsburg's Quality Greenhouses, which is supplying two new goji berry varieties from Proven Winners.

       
Big Lifeberry® was bred for its larger-than-the-species red fruits. Sweet Lifeberry® was bred for its sweeter-than-the-species flavor.

       
Both grow 5 to 6 feet tall in full sun to light shade and benefit from some tying or trellising to corral the plants' floppy growth habit.

       
The oblong, pea-sized fruits ripen continuously from early summer to fall, flower purple and produce with just a single plant (cross-pollination not required).

       
I think the taste takes some getting used to, but apparently birds and deer are just fine with it.

       
Finally, here's a new blueberry that looks like a fruiting boxwood.

       
"This is like nothing you've ever seen before," says Josh Howard of Oregon's Fall Creek Farm and Nursery, which bred the whole line of cutting-edge BrazelBerry fruit bushes. "Blueberry Glaze™ has really dark berries – nearly black – and a boxwood-like habit. It's got glossy, glossy leaves, and you can shear it like a boxwood."

       
The fruits are high in antioxidants, the 2- to 3-foot size is compact enough for pot growth, and fall leaf color is a rich burgundy.

       
David Wilson, marketing director for Garden Splendor Plants, also likes this newcomer for its spring flowers. "The plant really comes into its own with masses of gorgeous pink, fading to white, tubular flowers that are produced all over the 2- to 3-foot mound," he says.

       
Just give Blueberry Glaze™ acidy soil and at least one other blueberry nearby for pollination purposes.



Horti-Culture Corner Bonus
By Roy Blount Jr.



Roy Blount Jr. is a well-known southern humorist and sportswriter.  Blount is reluctant to try and define what southern humor is.  But, when asked by a northerner if southerners laugh at different things than northerners, he says, “Yes, northerners.”

       
Here are his thoughts on broccoli.



The neighborhood stores are all out of broccoli,
Loccoli.



Broccoli Versus Kale



Check out the tongue-in-cheek “Broccoli versus Kale” ad campaign that’s showing up on highway billboards around New Haven – shown in the following video





Monday, February 17, 2014

February 2014


Planters Punchlines
Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield
February 2014
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Organic Vegetable Gardening "
@ Men’s Garden Club of Wethersfield Febrary Meeting
Monday February 24 @ 7:00 pm in the Pitkin Community Center
     
Speakers are all lined up for the February and March meetings. 

February 24 will be Trish Safner, Master Gardener, who will discuss “Organic Vegetable Gardening”

March 24 will feature Marty Sienko, Master Gardener and Advanced Master Composter, speaking on “Backyard Composting”.  The public is invited. 

Compostable Matter
By Jim Meehan
     
This year’s new crop at the Meehan Homestead will be cactus.
       
It is the latest step in the gradual New Mexication of our landscape that Marsha and I have been nurturing over the past few years.  There are a couple of reasons for this horticultural mode of travel.  First, New Mexico is where we ultimately plan on living – but until then we will make do by bringing as much of that locale into our immediate surroundings as we can.
       
We began with our family room, which fittingly sits in the southwest section of our casa – note the subtle introduction of the Spanish motif – the walls of which are decorated with various arts and crafts from “The Land of Enchantment” that we have acquired or been given over the years.  Among them are three “retablos” (paintings on wood) of San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of farmers and gardeners who, according to legend, was discovered by his master praying while an angel was doing the ploughing for him.
       
While I am certainly not spiritually in a place to deserve any divine yard-helpers the religious icon’s presence nonetheless inspires me to emulate to a lesser degree some the Madrid native’s horticultural feats.
       
Which brings me to our second reason for New Mexicizing our local terrain – if ordinary mortals in one of the most sun baked and arid areas in the U.S. of A. can grow this stuff – then why shouldn’t we, sitting here in the rich, deep, alluvial soil of the Connecticut River Valley, be able to grow them even bigger and better.
       
We started with hollyhocks, which, while certainly not unique to New Mexico, nonetheless have gone on to become the floral symbol of the town of Taos and proliferate the southwest countryside throughout the summer and fall.  Depending upon whom you choose to believe this colorful cousin of hibiscus, okra and cotton was brought to the region by either the daughter of the territory’s first governor who purchased them from a St. Louis seed salesman or, Sueño, a near-sighted angel, who while escaping Herod's wrath took the Holy Family to New Mexico by mistake.
       
Either way, they are like-everywhere out there.  Actually even that's an understatement. I would say that you couldn't swing a dead javelina in Santa Fe without hitting one of these drought-tolerant, heat-loving members of the mallow family.
       
We got some seeds from our daughter-in-law and son’s front yard in Santa Fe and planted them in our first potentially faux New Mexico garden.  Year uno – nada.  Year dos – more seeds followed by more and more and more rain.  Mucho agua = drowned hollyhocks.  Year tres – the rains held off and the ‘hocks soared.  Last summer – not so good.  But hope is an integral part of gardening, especially with hollyhocks.
       
Next we added “Maximillian Sunflowers” (this time from our d-in-l’s backyard and harder to smuggle x-country) – another perennial (more reliable) that also can withstand poor soils and intense heat, and churns out large yellow flowers from midsummer onwards.  And tall.  Like really, really, tall.  Like cut them back in June, then August, and in September they are still eight feet high tall.  No problemo with these southwester imports.
       
So, what next?
       
Cactus.
       
Now New Mexican cactus is not showy and big-limbed like the steroidal, tree-like saguaro that can grow up to as much as seventy feet in the Sonoran desert of Arizona.  Instead it is the considerably more modest prickly pear – short plants with flat, rounded cladodes (also called platyclades) that are armed with two kinds of spines; large, smooth, fixed spines and small, hair like prickles called glochids, that easily penetrate skin and detach from the plant.
       
Only this time Marsha and I are not planning on secreting these paddle-like cacti in our carry-on luggage – those pointy needles can be a real turn-off, trust me – and we probably won’t be going to NM until after the CT growing season anyway. Instead we are going to sell out a little and seek the plant locally.
       
Or so we intend anyway.
       
Sometimes when New Mexican Catholics don’t get what they want after praying to their retablo saints they put the icons in a drawer or out of sight in some other place to express their anger.  So should you drop by our house this summer and you notice three San Isidro plaques hung with their faces to the wall – don’t even ask me how our prickly pear project went.
       
On the other hand if Isidro’s unsmiling face is looking you square in the eye (saints never grin after all) then you are welcome to visit our latest little bit of NM in CT.
       
More to come.

The Mulch Experiment by Susan Reimer

I am experimenting with NOT mulching this season, and so far it has all the earmarks of just that - an experiment. With unexpected results and really bad smells.
       
I have been mulching with shredded pine bark for more years than I like to remember. Mostly because those memories are painful. That's me, in pain, after gently spreading 3 or 4 cubic yards of mulch.
      
 I thought perhaps I would give my gardens, and my back, a rest this season. I know mulch is good for holding down weeds and keeping the ground temperature and moisture levels even.
       
But I had been hearing things about arsenic or other carcinogens in mulch and about how mulch might actually draw nutrients out of the soil. Unable to come to a decision, I decided not to decide to mulch.
       
Then I noticed the mountain of grass clippings my husband was generating.
      
 He'd fed the grass this spring and the result was predictable. The lawn now required two cuttings a week, even though DH cuts it pretty high.
      
 I thought perhaps I would use the clippings to mulch. Seemed like a good use of nature's resources, right? So I asked my husband to collect the grass clippings in a garbage can, and I would spread them as soon as I could.
       
Having mulched a small bed with those grass clippings, I have to say this might be where the experiment ends.
       
Grass clippings decompose very quickly and when I shoved my GLOVED hands into the garbage can to pull up a handful of clippings, I could feel the heat in my palms and it was uncomfortably hot!
       
I was putting the clippings around tender new plants and, though it was early spring and the ground was cold, I immediately worried that I was cooking those little babies.
       
Grass clippings smell terrible as they decompose. The stench was so bad from that little spot by the front porch that my daughter wouldn't let me open windows.
       
There are other issues with grass mulch, too. Though there were no harmful chemicals in the grass, I was probably transferring weed seeds, if not grass seed, to my bed.
      
 The grass mulch is an unattractive yellow-brown. And though all that nitrogen is a good thing, flowering plants need other nutrients.
       
So much for the idea of using all those grass clippings as mulch.
       
But composting those grass clippings can be tricky, too. They tend to form an impenetrable mat in the compost pile and have to be worked in carefully. It is almost like making an oil and vinegar emulsion.
       
The growth spurt in the lawn is nearly over for this season and my DH can return to leaving the clippings on the ground, where they will do no harm and plenty of good.
       
The plants in my gardens have grown, too, and they cover much of the same ground that mulch would mask.
      
 But if I can find a few bags of mulch on sale, I might buy them for those bald spots.
       
And next year, it will be back to mulching.

Growing Vegetables in Winter

It’s easy to find locally grown fresh produce in summer, but come winter what’s a salad-hungry Granite-stater to do? If you’re a gardener, the answer is easy - grow your own winter hardy vegetables.  While tomatoes and corn won’t flourish through a New Hampshire winter, there are dozens of crops that will, including lettuce, broccoli, kale, chard, collards, spinach, turnips, carrots, beets and parsley. All it takes is some low-tech protection from the cold and careful planning.
       
Many New Englanders already use cold-frames to extend the growing season. The photo to the left was taken in the early 1950s - it was built on the south-side of our house by my in-laws out of cast-off windows. The  bottomless boxes are usually built with one side higher than the other so that the top is slanted. It is then covered with a hinged window of glass or plastic. The box is stashed in a warm spot in the garden (next to a south-facing wall is a favorite location) and the plants are grown inside the box.
       
Cold frames can be great for small crops like baby lettuce, but you have to watch them like a hawk. Leave the top closed on a sunny day, and you’ll fry the seedlings. Forget to close it at night, and you’ll have a salad slushie in the morning. Luckily, garden supply companies sell temperature triggered automatic openers that can keep an eye on your veggies while you’re at work. Still, even the most tricked-out cold frame is no match for a killing frost; when nighttime temperatures regularly fall below 24 degrees, cold frame veggies either die or go dormant.
       
However, if your cold-frame is inside a bigger cold frame, you should be able to harvest fresh vegetables all winter. This technique has been perfected by Maine market-gardener Eliot Coleman and is the mainstay of his profitable vegetable business. Coleman’s latest book, “The Winter Harvest Handbook: Year-Round Vegetable Production Using Deep-Organic Techniques and Unheated Greenhouses,” is a must-read for anyone interested in harvesting salad greens and other vegetables when the snow is flying.
       
Eliot Coleman spent years studying the techniques of intensive market growers in France, the so-called maraîchers, farmers who tilled tiny plots within the city limits of Paris during the nineteenth century. Using the city’s abundant horse manure as both a fertilizer and a source of warmth for tender fruits vegetables, the maraîchers not only fed their fellow-citizens year-round, but exported high-quality produce all over Europe.
       
Eliot Coleman still hews to the maraîchers’ basic tenets - keep soil fertility high using organic materials like manure; plant intensively and rotate crops; figure out what varieties grow best in your conditions; and protect crops from the cold to extend the season. Coleman, however, has the added advantage of modern materials and technology, such as special fabrics that keep plants warm while letting in the light, plastic-covered greenhouses and drip irrigation.
       
He estimates that every layer of protection a farmer gives his vegetables is akin to moving the garden 500 miles south.  By growing his winter crops inside an unheated plastic-covered greenhouse, and covering them with spun-poly fabric when the temperatures drop below freezing, he is able to create a Zone 8 microclimate on his Zone 5 farm.
       
Cold isn’t the only problem for northern farmers, though. Light (or the lack of it) is another limiting factor for winter growers, but it’s not a deal-breaker. You might be surprised to learn that Concord, New Hampshire sits at a latitude of 43.208 degrees - about the same as the sunny Mediterranean city of Marseilles. Even with a winter cloud cover, we get enough light in New Hampshire to grow dozens of vegetables right through the darkest part of the year.
       
As long as daylight lasts ten or more hours, most cold-hardy plants (with some protection from extreme weather) will continue growing.  If such plants are well-established by the time days grow short, they will fall into a dormant state during the dark days of winter, not really growing but not dying either, ready to be picked whenever you like.
       
Around here, the big drop-off in light happens between October and November, when there’s a 27% reduction in day-length. November, December and January all have around 9 hours of light a day. In February, day-length jumps back up by 25% and finally tops ten hours.
       
What this means is that with proper protection, vegetables will grow (albeit slowly) right into November. Those that aren’t harvested for Thanksgiving and Christmas feasts, if they have had sufficient time to grow before November, will go dormant for the three darkest months and then spring back to life and growth in February. Even plants that have been killed to the ground by frost will often regrow in February, and seeds planted in midwinter, if watered and protected, will sprout in the growing light of late winter.
       
Greenhouses, though, are relatively expensive and take up a great deal of space, which is why in recent years New England farmers have embraced “high tunnels.” High tunnels look something like miniature hoop-houses. They’re constructed of 10 foot lengths of 1/2 inch electrical conduit bent into a hoops about 5 feet across. The ends of the hoops are inserted 5 or 6 inches into the soil; the hoops are spaced about 5 feet apart so that they form the skeleton of a tunnel.
       
The garden bed beneath the hoops is planted either with seeds or seedlings and then the hoops are covered with light spun-poly fabric that’s held in place with sandbags or rocks. Some of these crops, like fast-growing mesclun, will be harvested before winter really sets in. Others, such as onions, are timed to get big enough during the fall growing season that they can survive winter dormancy, reemerging to produce super-early crops in the spring.
      
 High hoops can also be used to protect already established crops that are frost-tender, like peppers and tomatoes, as well as to extend the season for well-established cold-hardy crops like carrots and lettuce when an early freeze threatens. They are also invaluable in spring to protect crops from cold weather and pests like flea beetles.
       
For crops intended to overwinter and resume growing in spring, an additional layer of plastic is added over the spun-poly fabric in late November or early December, when the weather gets to be too much for the delicate fabric. The plastic, when pulled taught and firmly weighted at both ends of the hoops, should stand up to snow and wind all winter. When spring arrives, the plastic is lifted to vent the tunnel and removed altogether when the weather settles.
       
The trickiest parts of four-season growing are choosing the right varieties and timing their planting. Though certain kinds of vegetables are regarded as cold-hardy, broccoli and lettuce for instance, not all varieties of broccoli and lettuce are ideal for winter production. Seed catalogues geared toward northern growers, like Johnny’s and Fedco, are full of good advice about which varieties do best during cold, short days, as is Eliot Coleman’s book (click here for a list of cold-hardy vegetables and recommended varieties).
      
 Keep in mind that certain kinds of vegetables are sensitive to day length and you’ll need to seek out varieties that don’t mind short days. Many kinds of onions, for instance, will only form bulbs when days are long and nights are short and these varieties won’t be happy in a winter greenhouse. However, the short-day varieties of onions usually grown in the South, such as Walla Walla Sweet and Vidalia, planted in fall will overwinter in high hoop tunnels to produce a very early onion crop in spring.
       
When to plant is the other difficult part of the equation. Seed catalogues and packets usually show the number of days it takes from seeding (or in some cases, transplanting) to maturity. For example, Black Seeded Simpson, a cold-hardy lettuce, is, on average, ready to harvest 42 days after seeding. In fall, however, when the weather is colder and days are growing shorter, it could take a week or two longer to get a mature head of lettuce.
       
To be on the safe side, add twelve to the number of days to maturity on the seed packet. For outdoor seeding, use this number to count back from the first expected frost in your area to find a planting date. In Concord, there’s a 50% chance we’ll see a frost by October 1. So if we figure Black Seeded Simpson lettuce planted as a fall crop takes 54 days to maturity, that means we should seed it in the garden by the beginning of August - if it is not going to be protected in any way.
      
 Black Seeded Simpson, though, as well as many other varieties of lettuce, can take temperatures well below freezing and bounce back again, especially if it has the protection of a cold-frame, greenhouse or high tunnel. This means lettuce can be seeded as late as September for fall and winter crops that will be protected. In fact, lettuce started inside and transplanted as well-established seedlings can be transferred to a high hoop or greenhouse as late as October.
       
Keep in mind that you want transplants to be big enough to be well-established when the cold and dark set in, but if they’re too big they may tend to bolt or be frost sensitive. Even Eliot Coleman with his years of experience says he’s still experimenting with varieties and planting schedules.
       
Plan on plenty of experimentation and some failures along the way, but don’t give up for the rewards are well worth the effort. Last year for the first time we harvested fresh food from our unheated greenhouse during every month of the year. There’s nothing that cures the winter blues faster than a homegrown salad in January.
       
Timing is everything. To start your seeds on time, you need to know when in relation to the frost-free date in spring to plant them. If you need help determining your spring frost-free date, call your county extension agent who can tell you for certain.

Horti-Culture Corner

Tomato haiku

left by the chipmunk
a half-eaten tomato-
salad on the deck

— C. Hicks (www.mnn.com)


Seed Starting Chart
A handy chart for knowing when to plant
http://www.organicgardening.com

Go to the following url to download the chart.

http://www.organicgardening.com/sites/default/files/pdf/Seedsaverchart_2.pdf


 Write your frost-free date in the blank space at the top of the chart.
       
Get a calendar and add or subtract the number of weeks in the "Safe to Set Out Time" column. This is the "Setting Out Date" when you can safely plant the crop to the garden. Write it in the last column.
      
 Take each date from Column 5 ("Setting Out Date"), subtract the number of weeks shown for that crop in column 3 ("Weeks from Sowing") and record that date in column 2 ("When to Start Inside").



 Top 10 World’s Hottest Peppers 

The previous world champion, Moruga scorpion has been dethroned!!  The new Guiness World Records World’s Hottest Pepper is the Carolina Reaper. As of November 20, 2013 the Carolina Reaper has been throned as the Hottest Pepper. [SHU = Scoville Heat Unit (A measure of Spiciness) - The average jalapeño ranks at about 5,000 units]

1. Carolina Reaper     2,200,000 SHU
There is nothing normal about this pepper. It was bred for heat and that it is. Oddly enough this pepper has excellent flavor as well. Officially the Worlds Hottest Pepper as ranked by Guinness Records.

2. Trinidad Scorpion Moruga Blend (Moruga Scorpion)     2,009,231 SHU
Straight from the depths of hell, Moruga Scorpion is a rare sought after pepper that was only just recently discovered

3. 7 Pot Brain Strain ~ 1,900,000 SHU

4. 7 Pot Primo ~1,900,000 SHU

5. 7 Pod Douglah    1,853,936 SHU

6. Trinidad Scorpion Butch T     1,463,700 SHU
No doubt it’s insanely hot, but other peppers have been proven to be hotter. 

7. Naga Viper     1,349,000 SHU
Extremely rare pepper cultivated in the UK. Combination of many different peppers and years of cross pollination created this variety of “Super HOT” pepper

8. Other 7 Pod Varieties (Red [Giant], Barrackpore, SR Strain, Primo, Jonah, Brain Strain, Yellow)     1,000,000 – 1,300,000 SHU

9.Bhut Jolokia (Ghost Pepper)      1,041,427 SHU
The most famous “Super Hot” due to the amount of press it has received in the past. Many mistakenly still believe it is the World’s Hottest.

10. Red Savina Habanero        500,000 SHU
Back in the early years of superhots the Red Savina Habanero was KING! He has since been dethroned and many peppers have passed him in heat. The Red Savina just barely makes the Top 10, but does so in fashion with its great flavor and extreme heat.